Third stop on the Côtes du Rhône to Côtes du Roussillon wine route: consultant oenologist Daniel Roche, in the footsteps of Maurice Chauvet, went to meet the Pic Saint-Loup winegrowers. Gérard Jeanjean, emblematic figure of the AOC, opened the doors of the Mas de Fournel to him in Valflaunès.
This man is incredible!… He gently comes to meet you from his cellar in the courtyard of the estate where sits an imposing tractor, tools for the vine, a few empty bottles. When he passes in front of the solid wall of the building, in stone from another century, pierced with blue shutters à la Matisse, one says to oneself: “Here is a man who does not look like much”. (I hope Gérard won’t mind me writing about him “that he doesn’t look like it!”). But behind this good-natured air lives an omnipresent and radiant smile, an enormous joie de vivre, an extraordinary energy, a sublime beauty, given by the love of work, effort, business ideas, generosity, kindness, good manners, simplicity. Elements that make you say “Here is someone I would like to have as a parent…”, Someone I would like as a friend…”.
Gérard Jeanjean takes over the family estate at 66
It therefore happens that Gérard Jeanjean is a winemaker at Pic-Saint-Loup. His path is quite original, not to say extraordinary. His first job is a carrier. Driving trucks, carrying cisterns of wine and other liquids, made him cross almost all the roads of France. In 1976, he is 66 years old, the age at which, in general, we put down our suitcases, we say to ourselves that it would be time to sit on the sofa or on the chaise longue listening to the cicadas while enjoying a small drink. of white, Gérard has nothing to do with it, he takes over the family winery and will produce memorable wines. We are at the Mas de Fournel.
Located in Valflaunès on the road up to Pompignan, the estate is surrounded by superb, very well-kept vines and pine forests at the foot of Hortus. There are old Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan but also recent plantations. During our last meeting, Gérard told me: “Daniel, you see this plot, I’m going to plant Syrah there…!” Incredible at 92! These wines are like him, generous, round, tasty, powerful, elegant, fruity, classic and totally in tune with the times. He abandoned aging in barrels several years ago, no more wood in his wines and we are delighted. Gérard simply offers visitors to the estate his time, his smile, his good humor.
Immortal, he imagines a whole bunch of projects
His cuvée “Pierre” in AOP Pic-St-Loup, composed of syrah is absolutely beautiful. With an inky black color, a powerful nose of spices, olives and black fruits, a voluptuous, enveloping and long, long mouth… When the vintage allows it, you can find a few bottles of the cuvée “Nombre d’Or”. When this is the case, you have to rush! It is a formidable and magical Mourvèdre. One of the greatest wines of Languedoc without a doubt! Gérard was born in 1930, so he is 92 years old today and still “good foot, good eye!”. He has just designed a new white cuvée composed of Vermentino, fresh and fruity, ideal for entertaining friends as an aperitif, to drink on the deckchair! He continues to imagine new projects: a terrace to improve his tasting space, a heliport for friends who come to see him by helicopter, a few oak trees to have truffles at Christmas. He thinks about the future Gerard, he is immortal!
Mas de Fournel in Valflaunès: 04 67 55 22 12.
Mas Daumas Gassac produced its first vintage in 1978.
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Mas de Daumas Gassac, in Aniane, in the firmament of great wines
In the remote countryside of Aniane, on the edge of the Gassac stream, there is a mill which should have ended up in ruins or rebuilt into a holiday villa. However, fifty years ago
industrialist, descended from his native Aveyron, settled there to embark on a challenge
extraordinary: to make a great wine in Languedoc (something unthinkable in 1970).
The Aveyronnais was called Aimé Guibert, the challenge was called Mas de Daumas Gassac. Taking advice from specialists, going to look for plants from non-cloned vines in the most renowned estates, he dared to sell his first 1978 vintage for the fabulous sum of 50 francs a bottle of table wine! Everyone then took him for a sweet dreamer, even for a madman! What courage, what intuition, what perseverance it took to place its magnificent red and its brilliant white in the firmament of the great wines of France.
Aimé left in 2016, today these sons are in charge. Thank you Mr. Guibert, you have paved the way, paved the way for the Languedoc winegrowers who have dared to raise their heads.
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Les Frères Feuillade, at Domaine Mirabel, on the borders of the AOC Pic Saint-Loup.
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The Feuillade brothers at Domaine Mirabel
At the northern limit of the Pic Saint-Loup appellation, two sympathetic brothers run their
domain in organic culture, it is about Vincent and Samuel Feuillade. Not necessarily known to the general public, and yet…
The estate’s five wines are remarkable and possess freshness, finesse and elegance, qualities that are still too rare in Languedoc. If there is a cuvée that you should not miss and for which you can “go for miles” it is the Les Éclats cuvée. Its characteristics: fruit, fruit, fruit! With a wide communicative smile and the joy of sharing their cuvées, Samuel and Vincent welcome amateurs directly into the cellar. And the fun is always there!
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The Pastourel brothers have taken over the reins of Château La Peyrade where Muscat is king.
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The Pastourel brothers at Château La Peyrade
From a vineyard in poor condition and a noble but “tired” 18th century building acquired by their father in 1977, the brothers Bruno and Remy Pastourel have created a superb estate, a jewel in a vineyard setting. Through their courage, tenacity and entrepreneurial spirit, they have made Château la Peyrade the standard-bearer for the quality of Muscat de Frontignan.
The Cuvée Prestige is a marvel of fruit and freshness that can be the subject of a beautiful aperitif or accompany foie gras, Roquefort or fruit desserts… Bravo l
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Chef Charles Fontès at the piano of the Réserve Rimbaud.
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At the table of the Rimbaud Reserve
Located on the banks of the Lez, less than a kilometer from the Corum, it feels like a Sunday in the countryside! Since 1875, the restaurant founded by Titus Rimbaud has offered Montpellier residents a haven of peace and gastronomic happiness since Charles Fontès took over the management of the beautiful establishment crowned with a star in the Red Guide.
Bucolic luxury, calm, serenity and high-level cuisine are the assets of this restaurant, which every gourmet is bound to have “done” at least once in his life!
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