Poached eggs, parsley ham and pâté en croute will regain a place of first choice within the Cité de la Gastronomie de Dijon, from the end of September. The chef Florent Colombo, known to be its cantor, will set up shop there, bringing the Burgundian church to the middle of a village which was naturally intended for it.
Florent Colombo in his former restaurant in Ahuy. © DBM
First of all, remember that the debate between new and old kitchen is as sterile as it is inappropriate. The two live together very well, you just need to have an appetite as open as your mind. Nor will we dwell on the diverse perception aroused by an international city of gastronomy in Dijon which is still young and under construction. She is a great success with a certain audience, but she certainly has a lot of leeway to conquer the popular register. In any case, that is our point of view.
Heritage salt is back
It’s a problem of the times, a bit like the ridiculous parenthesis that pitted the pro-Juliette Armanet against the pro-Michel Sardou demonstrated this summer. Instead of mutually enriching each other, the partisans of one abusively grant themselves a legitimacy of thought that they deny to the partisans of the other. In the field of cooking, as in song, this kind of two-ball squabble leads to nothing.
But news comes to reassure us about the beautiful “Cité” Dijon, which sometimes lacks heritage salt in its offer, especially for those who sincerely love beef bourguignon, offal and Burgundy in its most symbolic form. This news is the announced arrival of Florent Colombo on the Place du Village de la Cité. Presented by the elected referent from Dijon François Deseille to the owner of the premises William Krief, the charismatic cook from Dijon has subscribed to the project. After having run his establishment in Ahuy for a long time, which he was forced to close at the end of 2022 – since making way for the gourmet and very professional Coin Caché -, this great specialist in poached eggs, ham parsley (a killer!) and pie, had energy to place.
Sophie and Florent Colombo offer a takeaway service at the Halles de Dijon. © DBM
Burgundy on the go
Without letting go its flagship space at Les Halles, while affixing his signature in the right places (his marbling was chosen by the brand new Mama Shelter), Florent Colombo therefore feels ready to take up the space left vacant by two more or less successful experiences such as the Gastronomic Village has known others since its creation: the vegetable department that the consumer doubtless considered inaccessible, then that of sushi run by a slightly above-ground chef who finally thought he would find a better audience in Paris. That’s good, Paris is not France.
With his curves and his legendary generosity, as he knew and will know how to do again at the Foire de Dijon, the popular crazy Colombo will thus establish a joyful and judicious Burgundian corner which, no doubt, will quickly find its clientele. ” We will also offer some Burgundian dishes eaten on the go, as well as a lot of traditional suggestions in my own way “, reveals in veiled words the chef, who will make his official comeback on the occasion of the weekend Show the taste buds on September 23.
The story does not yet say if he will add his tribute dessert Le Darcy to his stall, but it already ensures that the City of gastronomy in Dijon will resume Burgundian colors. Which won’t bother some of us.
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