Fashion Week: invited to the Schiaparelli show, does Kylie Jenner sign the comeback of the cult of thinness? (Photo by Robert Smith/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
For a week now, Fashion Week has taken place in Paris. For the occasion, a veritable star parade takes place daily in the streets of the capital. On September 28, the Italian House Schiaparelli organized its fashion show in the heart of the Italian embassy. Many celebrities followed one another to pose in front of the photographers’ lenses. Rosalia, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Kylie Jenner and many other stars were invited. Known to be an important member of the Jenner/Kardashian clan, the 26-year-old young woman is once again attacked on social networks.
Coming to support her big sister Kendall, Kylie Jenner arrived at the show wearing a sublime mermaid dress designed by the House’s artistic director, Daniel Roseberry. Very low-cut and sparkling, the ultra-tight dress was able to highlight the more than flat stomach of the young mother, enough to worry her community. Under the star’s numerous post, it is possible to read the worried and critical comments of Internet users: “Is it possible to have waist so tiny compared to hips. just asking. Curious as doesn’t seem real” (Is it possible to have a waist as thin as the ribs? I’m just asking. It’s strange it doesn’t seem true), “Did you remove your ribs” (Did you have any ribs removed?), “Someone’s been using ozempic” (Someone used ozempic), “Dude that figure is NOT NORMAL ur posting unrealistic expectations for women who cant afford to buy a body like that BRAVO” (guys this body is not normal, you post unrealistic goals for women who can’t afford a body like yours, well done!) ou bien “wish I could afford ozempic like them lmfao”(I wish I could afford to buy ozempic). Her outfit and slim waist are reminiscent of Marylin Monroe’s legendary dress, worn by her half-sister Kim Kardashian during the Met Gala in 2022. In order to fit into this historic piece, Kanye West’s ex-wife admitted to having followed a drastic diet only for the occasion. His death order? Starve yourself.
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Like her half-sister Kim, Kylie Jenner appeared very thin, which did not escape Internet users. Just like the influencer with 400 million subscribers, many celebrities and models followed an intense diet and sports regime ahead of Fashion Week. A major fashion trend in the early 2000s, the cult of thinness seems to be making a comeback in 2023 and is undermining body positivity.
Figures that worry
Despite many celebrities, such as model Ashley Graham, singer Yseult and actress Florence Pugh, who fight for self-acceptance and standardization of shapes, the rate of “plus size” models in the fashion industry mode remains very low. According to one study carried out by Vogue Businessout of the 9,137 outfits from the 219 shows in 2022 (Milan Fashion Week, Paris, London and New York), 95.6% models waver between a size 32 and 36, 3.8% between a 38 and a 42, and 0.6% only are considered “plus size” (Size 44 and above). Alarming figures, especially since the average French size varies between 40 and 42 (survey carried out by IFTH in 2019).
These fashion shows, now rebroadcast online, influence the beauty trends of young people. This cult of thinness, very present on the catwalks, creates more and more complexes among Gen Z, to the point of creating eating disorders. Abdominal girdles, excessive sport, strict diets, all means are good to look like the most famous models. For a few months now, we have noticed the return of ultra-short t-shirts, very low-waisted jeans, exposed hips and pronounced collarbones. In 2022, no less than 900,000 people suffering from proven EDs have been identified by the FFAB (French Anorexia and Bulimia Federation).
In addition to celebrities, certain brands and Haute Couture houses have also decided to integrate plus-size models into their collections. Among them, we find Victoria’s Secret, Etam, L’Oréal Paris, Versace, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Valentino, Chloé, Mugler… In addition to social pressures, French law also pushes these institutions to evolve.
Ashley Graham walks the runway for Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2024 in September 2023 (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
What measures can be taken to combat this diktat?
France is one of the countries that fights most firmly against the dictates of thinness. In 2017, France managed to introduce two new laws: article 19 and article 20. The first requires brands to write the words “retouched photography” at the bottom of their modified campaign photos. As for the second, it makes a medical certificate compulsory in order to participate in a parade. This charter was signed and adopted by fashion industry giants such as LVHM and Kering. Spain is also waging a war against anorexia on the catwalks. Since September 2007, models whose body mass index is below 18 are no longer allowed to parade.
VIDEO – Thomas talks about the anorexia that ate away at him: “During my attacks, I ended up burglarizing a fridge”
Read also :
>> Florence Pugh denounces the injunctions of the cinema industry: “I was told to lose weight, that was not at all who I wanted to be”
>> A former Miss France candidate shares her express diet on TikTok: why it’s problematic
>> “I no longer have the body I had when I was on the catwalk”: Tyra Banks is now considered a plus-size model
2023-10-03 20:53:53
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