Translated by
Paul Kaplan
Published on
12 sept. 2021
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We will probably have to wait a little longer before the end of the pandemic – but that does not prevent New York brands from making their return to the catwalks. The mood is high in New York: are we witnessing a return to (new) normal?
A new era which is accompanied by a furious desire to escape, to long weekends and to move to the countryside.
We took a look at four must-have Spring / Summer 2022 collections, presented through catwalks across town – Proenza Schouler, Moschino, Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors – as part of a six-day season marked by the back on the catwalks of the big houses and independent designers.
Proenza Schouler: Young city dwellers at the beach
If they live in town, the ladies of Proenza Schouler are not lacking in practicality. The New York brand remains the yardstick for upcoming American fashion trends.
Its Wednesday night parade was set against the backdrop of the water and wooden fences characteristic of Atlantic beaches in North America. With many working New York women now working a four-day week before starting their weekend in the Hamptons, the scene was tailor-made for Proenza Schouler’s clientele.
That said, the designers at the head of the brand, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, have imagined a very urban collection for Spring-Summer 2022.
Multiple tailor-made proposals, from this Saharan one baring the shoulder to this super-heroine parka, through these sleeveless leather trench coats – one in ecru, the other in chocolate black – or even this wonderful yellow zebra coat. .
Clothes to travel comfortably in a new, almost post-professional era, where one could sneak away from cramped offices and dress in a much more romantic way every day. Like these large sculptural dresses, adorned with pearls, spaghetti-shaped fringes, with lines highlighted by side cuts – sometimes canary yellow, sometimes amaranth red.
The show ended with a trio of very colorful, very elegant, and very contemporary pastel dresses. The models wore masculine moccasins and chic, sturdy sandals, and wore stunning “Dia Day” bags, accented with hand-woven raffia and technical faux crocodile.
“A celebration of rediscovered freedoms, as fragile as they may seem, coupled with absolute optimism for all that awaits us”, this is how the creative duo themselves define their collection.
Moschino: Fashion in the pasture
This season, the weather gods were not very lenient to Moschino, but those of wit and invention had answered the call. Shown in a continuous drizzle at Bryant Park, the collection expressed with humor and energy the optimistic outlook of the industry’s most mischievous designer, Jeremy Scott.
Playing on retro pop ideas and nursery school prints, the designer imagined short A-shaped dresses with puffed sleeves, mini flamenco jackets and even shorter skirts with matching bustiers. On a bucolic dress with particularly flattering shapes, heart-shaped buttons …
Jeremy Scott’s favorite fabrics for next spring: Naive pastel prints with lots of pink teddy bears, turquoise elephants and lilac lambs – great wallpaper ideas for a child’s room. All complemented by spiral bracelets, afro beaded cuts and high heels in a kaleidoscope of tangy hues. All the models were strutting around with a matching handbag on their arm – the colors of the different pieces were coordinated to the extreme on each outfit.
“Sweet dreams are made of this universe,” says Jeremy Scott, who said the elegant ladies of the East Coast have rarely looked so optimistic.
Admittedly, a slightly absurd vibe emanated from the parade – but again, this is a fundamental part of Franco Moschino’s DNA – in the image of animal prints, which became three-dimensional at the end of the show.
The top-notch cast – from Gigi Hadid to Imaan Hammam – began to pace the podium as photographers had not yet settled into their seats and masked guests took refuge under large umbrellas. The highlight of the event was certainly Jeremy Scott’s salute alongside the anti-Guayo-American transgender model Aaron Philip, in a wheelchair.
Carolina Herrera: Uptown Girl Celebrates 40 Years
Designer Wes Gordon celebrated Carolina Herrera’s 40th anniversary with an intimate runway show at a historic Upper East Side townhouse.
Since its inception, Carolina Herrera has been one of Manhattan’s chicest houses, and this latest collection was no exception. Very shouldered versions of Carolina Herrera’s flagship model – the ultra-feminine white suit -, majestic and grandiose dresses in black and white silk, or short, more punk jacquard dresses: all undoubtedly corresponded to the brand’s DNA.
Under the leadership of Wes Gordon, woman Carolina Herrera has been a decade younger, and now wears stunning white cotton shirts with gathered floral details and monkish sleeves, or fearless mini dresses in sequined, crimson and cream checks. . Better yet, the designer reinterprets Carolina Herrera’s signature polka dots in a new logo print used on stunning dresses.
Wes Gordon’s best ideas were probably the most majestic: charcoal sequined bustiers over endless swirls of satin, or short black dresses followed by long trains.
In a sense, the collection was a bold bet on the future. Wes Gordon seems confident that New York socialites will resume their course next spring, with charity events and balls, weddings and party weekends. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
Michael Kors: Having a good time in Central Park
America’s most passionate designer Michael Kors is reconnecting with nature this season. His parade was held at the Tavern on the Green, a popular restaurant west of Central Park.
It was like the good old days, with a group of stars – including Kate Hudson who filmed the entire runway finale – in the front row, alongside the new CEO of the house, Joshua Schulman, and the absolute master of the brand. , John D Idol, the CEO of its owner, Capri.
Unveiled in a green park, the clothes were resolutely urban: little black dresses with turtlenecks, flared leather skirts and pink or ecru trench coats, cut very softly.
For the evening, a divine leather sheath dress, lacerated with cutouts, and several superb short and fitted dresses in confetti guipure, or even loose skirts topped with tank tops. For a weekend at the beach, black cashmere sweaters adorned with a red heart and a hand.
Several models wore tote bags and bucket bags, some of which contained a bouquet of roses, but this ode to jet-set glamor seemed a bit out of step with the current vibe.
Actress and singer Ariana DeBose accompanied the event with classics like My Baby Just Cares For Me. It was a very neat parade. Kendall Jenner, like most other models, wore her hair slicked back and ruby lipstick.
While this was clearly not Michael Kors’ finest collection to date, the show still exuded a welcome sense of optimism after the troubled times that may be coming to an end.
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