Rioja has long been considered one of the world’s great wine regions, known for its rich and complex reds aged in oak barrels. However, a growing number of winemakers in this Spanish region are dialling back on the oak ageing, opting for fresher and more expressive wines that showcase the region’s terroir. In this article, we explore the trend towards a more modern style of Rioja and the reasons behind this shift.
The traditional Rioja Reserva is a well-known wine, with its oak aging creating a smoother, vanilla-spiced flavor. However, this process can dampen any terroir or vineyard-specific character. Many larger producers source grapes from all over the region, creating consistent but less interesting wines. In recent years, some producers have dialed back on the oak or eliminated it to showcase the fruit produced in specific vineyards or villages, resulting in spectacularly good wines with wonderful purity of fruit. Notable among these modern Rioja producers is Bodega Lanzaga, bought by renowned winemakers Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza in 1998. The Navarra region, which traditionally created wines in a similar style to Rioja, produced a stunning example of the potential of modern wine. Searsons in Monkstown offers several excellent modern Riojas, including Bodegas Bhilar’s Garnacha, Graciano and a stunning white Rioja. All of the wines featured here offer great value for money and make for excellent pairings with lamb, whether grilled or roasted. While the featured wines are the least expensive from their respective producers, it’s worth trying their more expensive offerings. Featured wines include El Circulo Rioja 2019, Pagos del Rey; Bodega Bideona Rioja Laderas 2019; Corriente Rioja 2020, Bodega Lanzaga; and Birak 2021, Navarra Aseginolaza & Luenda. They range from lively and supple with dark cherry fruits to delightful, fresh, and elegant with pure red cherries and orange peel. These wines can be found at various wine merchants.
In conclusion, winemakers in Rioja are moving away from the traditional oak ageing process to create modern, fresh and fruity wines that appeal to a wider audience. The shift may be surprising to some, but it is a reflection of the changing tastes and preferences of wine drinkers in today’s market. While there may still be a place for classic, oak-aged Rioja wines, it is exciting to see the region embrace innovation and experimentation. Who knows what other surprises Rioja may have in store for us in the future?
