This place is not exactly secretbut it wants fame, not tourists or onlookers. Although because of its history, and above all because of its appearance, it has them by the bucketload. That explains why its residents have placed a sign at the entrance that says: ‘no photos’. And not so much because of a question of tourismophobia, but as a way of preserving the identity of a self-made neighbourhood with urban art y graffiti and covered with demolition materials, a symbol of counterculture and anti-system revolution. It emerged in the 1990s, in the same place where the army of the Balkans was installed during the war in the Balkans. Ljubljanathe capital of Sloveniauntil the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. Today the appearance of an intervened and apocalyptic city that it presents Metelkova confirms that we are in the most alternative neighborhood in the city, possibly in the country and, if no one says otherwise, in Europe.
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What to see in Slovenia’s most alternative neighbourhood
The same buildings that were once occupied by the army are now a refuge for the most ‘underground’ Slovenian community. Something like Camden Town in London or the Kreuzberg of Berlinonly less ‘cool’ and much more marginal (getting lost here in the early hours of the morning doesn’t seem like a good idea). And this isn’t a remote place on the outskirts of Ljubljana. It’s actually located next to the three main museums in the city: National Museum of Slovenia, Metelkova Museum of Contemporary Art y Ethnographic Museum of Slovenia. Or what is the same, just 20 minutes walk from the historic centre of Ljubljana.
It is so different, so unexpected and so unique that Metelkova is something like a city within the city, in which there is no craft shops no souvenirs, but a couple of bars and cafes, local artists’ studios and a Hostel Celica is a designer hostel, built in the former military prison of the army. This is Hostel Celica, a very unique accommodation (each cell, converted into a room, is different), aimed at very well-informed backpackers. We are possibly looking at the first and for the moment only example of gentrification in this microcosm so different from the rest of the city.
To llegar a Metelkovayou just have to locate the museum square, cross it and walk along the main street (the only one there is). You can observe it with curiosity (impossible to hide that you are journey and that we are tourists) but no photos of the faces of those who stop by here. This is what the local community of this place asks for, as it does not want to be just another ‘place to be’ (at least, as long as it can avoid it).
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