Sylvain Renzetti © GP
He would have liked to be a rock star, a musician in any case, will become a cook, self-taught and passionate, eager to meet others, cooking day by day, from his open labs, in an old house, which was a private mansion, then a shop, and which has preserved its beautiful sculpted ceilings, with stucco and moldings from the end of the other century, the 19th century. Playing the modern in the old, Sylvain Renzetti, 29, hits the mark without firing a shot.
Amuse-bouche © GP
It is the darling of Tripadvisor, which places it at the top of their users’ favorite restaurants in Bordeaux, is promoted to the rank of 109 and “new blood” at Gault-Millau, but remains shunned by Michelin – we wonder why. While its lunch menu emphasizes flawless value for money and that of the evening, the measured and exciting creativity which could very well earn it a star.
Basin oyster © GP
The dining team is in tune, who advises with science, and mischievously offers a cuisine that uses products from the greater Nouvelle Aquitaine region as closely as possible. Any idea what we find there? The appetizers are nice nods to what is to come. So the beef tartare with grana padano and white balsamic truffled sphere, the creamy beetroot and pickle sorbet, the black olive tapenade and its edible canvas.
Squid cooked with fear © GP
The serious things begin with the Arcachon oyster (where the chef is from) revisited in an iodized risotto with small rice-style pasta, “riso”, the oyster in cream, sorbet and espuma, plus a kiwi tartare, a sausage in cromesquis (a nod to the crepinette which traditionally accompanies the Basin oyster), ficoid glaciale, cordifole, pearl of red wine vinegar & shallots. And the symphony continues in style with the “cooked with fear” squid, its veil of almond milk, its Brussels sprouts condied with lemon ink, its cider and chorizo sauce, its apple brunoise.
Hay-smoked julienne © GP
We continue with hay-smoked julienne, spelled with mushrooms, celery and sake espuma, shitake, with stewed leeks, shimeji pickles, balsamic foam, lemon thyme crust and matelote sauce. We add Duroc pork bacon cooked for 66 hours at 66 degrees called “Porcifer”, with salsify, roasted onions, glazed radishes, steamed and smoothed broccoli, parsnip puree, port sauce.
Porcifer © GP
We add the “fruity abstracts”, very light, with granny apple and passion fruit, with a fig heart and lemon heart. We water everything in the glass, with a lively and seductive white burgundy called “white pearl” signed Christine Nadalié at Château Beaurivage in Macau, before paying a visit to the exquisite Clos la Bohème in Haut Médoc from the same passionate winemaker. To discover !
Fruity abstracts © GP
Restaurant Son’
14 Rue Paul-Louis Lande
33000 Bordeaux
Such. : 05 57 67 10 46
Weekly closing. : Sun., Monday.
Menus: €29 (lunch), €75 (dinner)
Site : www.son-restaurant.fr
2023-11-10 04:11:27
#Bordeaux #rockn #roll #cuisine #Sylvain #Renzetti
