In an ordinary residential area of downtown Chartres, below the majestic Gothic cathedral, hides an unusual monument. Behind a shaded alley, the unclassifiable Maison Picassiette (1), built by Raymond Isidore from 1938 until his last breath on September 7, 1964, is revealed.
A native of Chartres and municipal agent, he challenged himself to transform his cinder block pavilion into a palace for Adrienne, his beloved ten years his senior, widow and already mother of three children, whom he married in 1924. He covered every corner with pieces of broken crockery, glass and earthenware that he picked up on the way to the cemetery where he worked as a sweeper to form this dreamlike decor.
In total, this autodidact, thirsty for recognition, will have devoted 29,000 hours of work and recycled 4 million pieces of debris to this company, which he dreamed of destining for the opening of a guinguette. ” One day, Adrienne would have said to him: “I am going to wake up covered in broken bottles”. says Isabelle Mesnard, vice-president of Chartres Métropole in charge of tourist promotion and president of the Tourist Office, which has been operating the monument since January 1, 2023.
Raymond Isidore devoted 29,000 hours of work and recycled 4 million pieces of debris to create Maison Picassiette, a reflection of his faith. / Maurice Zalewski/adoc-photos/DN
Raymond Isidore was inspired by postcards from Holy Sepulchre, the Tower of Pisa, the Colosseum in Rome or Mont-Saint-Michel to create these decorations for the interior of the house in shimmering colors. In the bedroom, a Berber village in the heart of a Moroccan palm grove reveals its dreams of escape. Like a totem, Chartres Cathedral appears in each of the rooms.
Devotion to Mary
« It is not fortuitous. He was very pious. Some saw in him a mystic, a little crazy, says Isabelle Mesnard. Little by little, the neighborhood began to take him seriously. We have received testimonials from people who remember bringing wheelbarrows full of debris when they were children. »
The faith of this man, born in 1900 into a modest family of eight children, developed from childhood. Stricken with blindness, he miraculously recovered. after having kissed a pillar of the cathedral of Chartres”, says Tiphaine Herry, the new manager of Maison Picassiette.
Raymond Isidore, who was sometimes considered a simple original, experienced recognition during his lifetime. / Philippe Hallé/adobestock
This devotion is materialized by the erection of a small chapel, adjoining the family home. Raymond Isidore sculpted ex-votos, crosses, celestial characters, inscribing sacred words from the Gospel on the walls in gold letters. The evocation of the protective figure of Mary returns obsessively as in a Marian sanctuary. Further on, in the courtyard, he has faithfully reproduced the largest cathedrals in France. And in the garden, a column brings out these words: Here rests the Heavenly Spirit. “Other pagan figures like the Mona Lisa, Landru -” whose guilt he must have doubted”wonders Tiphaine Herry – or Pasteur populate this pantheon incongruously.
A school-campus to come
This cabinet of curiosities has intrigued illustrious artists. Legend has it that Picasso would have visited incognito this place worthy of Chomo’s forest house in Achères-la-Forêt (Seine-et-Marne) and the postman Cheval’s house in Hauterives (Drôme), two other symbols of art. raw. Robert Doisneau photographed Raymond Isidore for his series of portraits of marginalized people. ” And later, it was Madonna who wanted to see the Maison Picassiette », maintains Isabelle Mesnard.
The renewed public interest in this house, listed and protected as a “historical monument”, comes with many challenges. In partnership with the Drac (Regional Directorate of Cultural Affairs) Centre-Val de Loire, the City of Chartres, owner of the site since 1981, will have to preserve this monument weakened by erosion. “To protect the paintings and sculptures, especially inside, we thought of putting the house under a bell jar, indicates Isabelle Mesnard. But the cost – around €400,000 – held us back. »
Roadmender of the City of Chartres, then sweeper in a cemetery, Raymond Isidore gradually decorated his house from floor to ceiling. / Philippe Hallé/adobestock
To have free rein in the future restoration program, the City nevertheless acquired the neighboring land. A first training site on the exteriors is due to start soon. “We wanted to promote the site before starting work. » To the great joy of Cécile Rolland, Adrienne’s great-granddaughter, who calls herself ” very happy that this house, a heritage too little known to the inhabitants of Chartres, is coming back to life”.
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Practical
Since the end of confinement, the Maison Picassiette in Chartres has once again attracted the public. Operated since 1is January 2023 according to the tourist office, it is visited by 30,000 people a year, including many foreign tourists (Japanese, German, etc.). The ambition is to double attendance in the short term. From March 15 to June 30, 2023, 12,000 entries – outside schools and groups – had already been recorded. A record. In this regard, two jobs have been created to animate the site. A tea room has opened this season, while concerts are offered outside.
• The exhibition “Doisneau, in the eyes of Picassiette” presents, until October 31, 22 shots of the photographer, who discovered this unusual house in 1953, intrigued by the work of Raymond Isidore.
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