For many years, a fast food restaurant with grilled chicken was located in the corner building where Milady Horáková and Čechova streets meet. However, the smell of golden-baked cuticles did not waft around for a long time, and at the beginning of June, fortunately, it was replaced by an equally enticing smell. Juan Cruz, a native of Buenos Aires who settled in Prague and is known to steak lovers thanks to his restaurant Gran Fierro, opened the Argentine bakery Cruz Panadería here. “Argentine pastry is mostly influenced by Italian tradition, but thanks to local products and flavors it has acquired its own identity,” he says.
Anyone who lives in Letná knows that there is a shortage of artisan bakeries here, so Cruz Panadería fills a hole in the market. It is located a short distance from a busy intersection, from which Prague Castle can be seen. And given that the word cruz means cross in Spanish, its name is doubly appropriate: it copies the name of its owner and the place that one means of transport crosses after another all day long.
“I have been living in the Czech Republic continuously since 2008 and I like this country very much. At the same time, I also like traditional Argentinian cuisine. With regard to historical events, it mixes the influences of various world cuisines. I would say that Argentinians have taken the best of each and created some really great dishes. I want to represent my country and its excellent cuisine in the Czech Republic, which is why I opened Gran Fierro in 2015 and now Cruz Panadería.” explains the opening of the Juan Cruz bakery.
Argentinian pastries are mostly influenced by the Italian tradition
The implementation of the new business took approximately five months from the time the premises were taken over. According to Cruz, the proposal was relatively quick, as he had a very clear idea of what he wanted. The whole process was slowed down the most by waiting for bakery machines and permits. However, the Cruz Panadería team, led by Pablo Savelli, devoted this time to refining individual recipes so that they were as faithful as possible to the Argentine baking tradition.
Unlike steaks and wine, it is still largely unknown in our country. Cruz wants to present a whole range of Argentine classics here. For example, a pastry called medialuna, which is the Argentinian equivalent of a croissant. However, compared to the one we know, it is fluffier and has a consistency a bit like brioche. Of the savory pastries available here every day are sandwich de miga, i.e. stuffed baked toast without a crust, pintxos, which is the Argentinian equivalent of Czech sandwiches, chipas cheese buns or a great savory pie with a mushroom filling.
Some pieces, such as focaccia or light bread, show the influence of Italian bakery. The most characteristic feature of pastries from Argentina is their size – the individual pieces are smaller, thanks to which at least one can taste several types at once. There are currently about twelve of them on offer at the bakery, and in the future it will gradually expand. “We want to use seasonal ingredients as much as possible, so we come up with seasonal variants of pastries inspired by what nature has to offer in its calendar,” adds Cruz.
All pastries are baked on site in an open kitchen that every guest can see. In the interior, the soft pastel pink color in combination with bold gold plays prim. Juan Cruz wanted to differentiate the establishment from the Gran Fierro restaurant, which uses rather dark, earthy tones in combination with wood, leather and concrete.
“I felt that I needed something lighter that would also fit the concept of the bakery. I also wanted to give space to a delicate feminine aesthetic, so there are pink floors and beautiful golden ceiling lamps in the interior. The work was coordinated by the architect Elvira Ireri and the studio Marco Maio Architects. The design of hanging wheat is the amazing work of Markéta Motlová from the Inspirito studio.” adds to the Cruz interior.
This year, he is planning one more addition to his gastronomic portfolio. The space next to the new bakery is currently closed, but the businessman plans to open a ceviche bar and rotisserie there this year. In addition to the smell of fresh baked goods, the aroma of grilled meat will also return to the upper part of Milady Horáková street.
2023-06-07 11:31:38
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