Conservator Jane Goodall designed her jewelry line

Dr. Jane Goodall, the famous environmentalist who is celebrating her 90th birthday this year, loves the banana leaf.

In his twenties, when he began to study chimpanzees in Tanzania, he saw the majestic banana tree and its broad, rubbery leaves. When he traveled the world, he saw how people used it not only for food. In South India, they are used as environmentally friendly disposable plates and cups; in Malaysia, for food packaging. “It’s very attractive, it changes into different shapes by bending in different ways,” he tells me. “And when you finish using it, it goes back to the ground and fertilizes the soil.”

In recent decades, as the planet has been threatened by climate change and pollution, there has been concern about the future of this leaf. Jane Goodall captured her love and concern for the banana leaf in a new jewelry collection she designed with Brilliant Earth, a San Francisco-based jewelry store known for its ethical practices.

The seven-piece collection, which includes rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets that incorporate the shape of a banana leaf, is made from recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds. Jewelry prices range from $895 to $2,995, and 10% of profits go to the Jane Goodall Institute, which works to restore critical habitats, support girls’ education, and the next generation of activists to move (Goodall worked on the project pro bono).

While Jane Goodall was interested in sharing the beauty of the banana leaf with the world, she also wanted to use this jewelry to start a conversation about the origin of gold. Three-quarters of the gold products manufactured today are made from gold mined from the earth. But Goodall has seen for himself how devastating this process is to the environment and communities.

In the small mines of Africa, working conditions are brutal. Workers, including children in forced labor, are often injured or killed. Armed groups sometimes take control of mines to enrich themselves, forcing residents to leave. And mines release toxic chemicals into bodies of water, harming nearby people and animals. “It’s taking a toll on indigenous communities,” he says. “I’ve seen people lose their hair and teeth because of pollution.”

Brilliant Earth used recycled gold to create this collection. This is part of a wider trend in the jewelry world. Pandora, the world’s largest jeweller, which creates 103 million pieces a year, has announced that it has completely changed to using recycled silver and gold. In addition to being more ethical for employees, the recycled gold produces less than 1% of the carbon emissions compared to gold mining. “A lot of people don’t know this,” Goodall says. “It’s really important to have this conversation.”

Beth Gerstein, founder and CEO of Brilliant Earth, says that 97% of the gold they use is recycled. However, they also use some ethically sourced gold certified by Fairmined, an organization that ensures the environment preserves and protects workers in small mines. However, both Fairmined gold and recycled gold are significantly more expensive than traditionally mined gold, so they are not yet widely used in the jewelry industry.

Ultimately, Goodall believes that the way to promote positive environmental change is not only to highlight all the ways humans are destroying it, but also to cultivate true love to the planet. When customers buy these pieces, Goodall wants them to think about banana trees, as well as the people and animals that depend on them. She believes this is more likely to encourage them to change their behaviour.

And although Goodall has seen how terrible the condition of the planet has been over her 90 years, she has not lost hope. He says he is inspired by the many young people he meets through his foundation who are committed to making things better. And he believes that human beings have the ability to change things quickly and avoid crises. “Scientists are telling us that we have a window of time, albeit a short one, to at least slow down climate change,” he says. “Humans have a pretty amazing mind, although we haven’t always used it wisely. “We are beginning to find ways to live in better harmony with nature.”