Dana McMahan
| Special to the Courier Journal
This is the story of a region built upon river trade, a lush swathe of land that turned out to be a dream for distilling a luxurious golden-brown spirit.
A museum immerses visitors in the history and craft of the spirit, and distilleries welcome enthusiasts to inhale and savor the angel’s share in low-lit warehouses where they share stories of passionate distillers who live and breathe their product. The spirit may grab most of the attention but it’s not the only claim to fame — there’s a famous race, and the arts are a thriving scene.
We’re talking about bourbon country, right?
Actually? We’re talking about Cognac.
What’s the difference between bourbon and Cognac?
Throughout the few days I spent in this southwestern area of France this fall, I kept thinking I’d stumbled into Louisville’s elegant French twin.
We grew from the banks of the mighty Ohio River; they rose from the placid Charente River. We found a better way to store corn (as whiskey!), and sent barrels down to New Orleans, creating, as legend has it, bourbon, when the white lightning mellowed under the care of the oak. They found that distilling the wine from grapes grown there was the best and highest use, then shipped the resulting spirit downriver in barrels to Atlantic ports. The brandy unfurled its fire in the oak, et voila: Cognac.
We’ve followed a similar journey, devising rather elaborate protections and designations for the production of our respective spirits and our timelines keep cross-crossing.
Bourbon, as we well know, is on fire. But 20 years ago? It was your grandpa’s drink, just beginning to take hold on the craft cocktail scene. That was the impression I got in Cognac.
“French people don’t drink Cognac,” I was told again and again. A full 98% of the production, in fact, is exported (half of it to the United States!).
But, just like bourbon, signs point to a rebirth that traces our own path.
A Cognac rebirth?
That Cognac rebirth starts with local bartenders, especially ones like Guillaume Le Dorner of Firefly Bara former garage turned swanky lounge on the banks of the Charente River, practically in the shadow of the town’s ancient fortifications and the massive presence that is Hennessy.
Feeling adrift after a few weeks of traveling, I found myself perched on a barstool watching Guillaume concoct a delicious Cognac-forward cocktail. So far on my trip, I’d had Cognac neat, and with tonic water on ice (the French version of a bourbon and ginger!) and I appreciated the spirit.
But building a cocktail from it? That was something new. Guillaume created several drinks for me to try, most of which you and I wouldn’t attempt at home. One that we can easily try is this: a sugar cube soaked in Angostura bitters, topped with Champagne, and Cognac, with an orange peel expressed then floated over the glass.
This classic may be one of the oldest cocktails on record (and would work with bourbon, too!), but for some of-the-moment drinks, including a “Nuclear Sidecar” that would revive the dead, or one of the most enticing cocktails I’ve ever tried, a creation starring chamomile syrup and finished in smoke, you’re going to have to go to Cognac.
Exploring the Cognac region of France
You’ll be in good company if you do, as I was when I met an American couple from Washington, D.C. on a distillery tour. Todd B. Hunter, who professed his undying love for Cognac, was on a bucket list trip with his girlfriend Zeporia Harper, immersing themselves in all things Cognac. We found ourselves at the same place more than once, following the trail from one distillery to another to the Cognac Know-How Museum to various restaurants and bars.
“I think it’s such a great adventure if you have a true passion for something to discover and find out the origins and everything that you can about it,” Todd told me of his inspiration for the Cognac trip.
And while Cognac’s drink may get top billing, the region certainly has more gifts for its visitors. In nearby Angoulême, where I stayed for a couple of days, the art scene may leave your jaw on the floor. Treasures there include a literal treasure trove in the Saint-Pierre Cathedral, home to a succinctly titled Extraordinary Room where religious artifacts are displayed in a fever dream of dazzling color and pattern imagined by artist JM Othoniel.
The narrow cobblestone streets (made famous as the set of Wes Anderson’s “The French Dispatch”) are home to a wealth of creations, many on display on the streets themselves in the form of murals.
I had the treat of visiting the ateliers and concept shop of renowned designer Nicole Masset, and the boutique of talented young illustrator Audrey Sedano. And for adrenaline-seekers, once a year they play host to a “speed car event” featuring historic cars careening around the town in the Grand Prix des Remparts.
Oh, and this being France, it goes (almost) without saying that the food alone would be worth the trip, weaving fresh seafood (from the nearby Atlantic coast) with decadent ingredients like duck and truffles.
I came away with a true sense of connection to this place and it wasn’t just the sister spirit and the scent of home heavy in the air at the distilleries. Cognac showed me that when people are passionate about a spirit, it attracts even more passion. For every distiller dedicated to their craft, there are creators, artists, chefs, bartenders, and storytellers equally as passionate, and all waiting with open arms to share their love with the world ― whether in the heart of France or the heart of the Bluegrass.
How to plan a trip to Cognac, France
If you’re planning a trip to Cognac, you’ll probably fly to Paris, then take a direct, train to Angoulême, before a short drive or train to Cognac. You’ll want to plan tours of legendary distilleries such as Martell and Hennessy as well as smaller houses, so check out tourism-cognac.com/uk/ before you book your trip.
On my recent sojourn, I divided my time between Angoulême and Cognac, both manageable on foot, and liked that approach. Hotel du Palais in Angoulême is a whimsical, colorful, traditional small hotel on a leafy square overlooking the town hall. In Cognac, I kicked back at Francis the First in the city center, with the bonus of it being attached to a jewelry box of a bar, Louise.
If you’d like to sample the goods before committing to an international trip, head to the bar at Paseoat the new Myriad Hotel, 900 Baxter Ave., for the Room with a Vieux cocktail, where bourbon meets cognac in a twist on the New Orleans classic.
Tell Dana! Send your restaurant “Dish” to Dana McMahan at thecjdish@gmail.com and follow @elleferafera on Instagram.
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