The progress is remarkable, because the global fashion industry was hit hard during the corona crisis due to store closures and canceled orders. Many textile workers, especially in low-wage countries, were out of work from one day to the next without work. “At times, trade union freedom was also under pressure,” the report says, “and the corona pandemic made it more difficult to carry out on-site checks.”
“In a crisis, everyone is first focused on survival. However, the covenant pursues a collective interest. It is especially in times of corona that it becomes apparent how important it is for companies to maintain good relationships with their suppliers and to achieve improvements in the chain through collective projects,” he said. Pierre Hupperts, chairman of the covenant.
Abuses
However, not all developments are favourable. The number of companies participating in the clothing covenant decreased in 2020. Ten fashion companies withdrew due to bankruptcy or because they were unable or unwilling to meet the requirements.
In 2020, two complaints were filed against the retail chain C&A under the covenant. Interest groups Arisa and the Clean Clothes Campaign (SKC) argue that the company is doing too little against abuses at production locations in India and Myanmar.
SKC is also critical of the effectiveness of the clothing covenant, especially in the past corona period. “We have also seen examples of how not to do it from fashion companies that are affiliated to the agreement. For example, large orders that were canceled unilaterally and not wanting to continue paying the wages of textile workers,” says spokesman Wyger Wentholt.
“The covenant is pulling hard in all kinds of areas, but the resources of such a voluntary initiative are limited,” said Wentholt. “We advocate legislation.”
–
