After the World Rock Climbing Championships, the Chinese team received a “ticket” for the Paris Olympics
On the 12th, the Rock Climbing World Championships ended in Bern, Switzerland. China’s Long Jinbao qualified for the Paris Olympics by virtue of his silver medal in the men’s speed event.
As a qualifying event for the Paris Olympics, this World Championships produced a total of 10 Olympic “tickets”: the top three men and women in the all-around event and the top two men and women in the speed event can go straight to Paris. In the speed event, the Chinese team sent five male and female players to participate in the competition.
Olympic tickets so close at hand also put extra pressure on the athletes, with no one climbing the five-second barrier in the men’s final. Leonardo, the world record holder, made a mistake in the first round. Indonesian star Katerbin, Chinese players Zhang Liang, Wu Peng and other players were also eliminated in the second round.
Long Jinbao advanced all the way to the semi-finals with his stable performance. As he took the first shot of the timer button in the second round of four, he narrowly beat his opponent by 0.14 seconds, and also won the Chinese rock climbing team’s first ticket to the Paris Olympics.
In the championship and runner-up competition, Long Jinbao took the runner-up. The championship was won by the little-known Italian player Zurloni. He also set a new European record in 5.02 seconds in eight rounds and four rounds. At the age of 21, his previous best result in the World Cup was only eighth.
The women’s championship and runner-up were respectively won by Indonesian player Devi and American player Hunter, who also booked two seats for the Paris Olympic Games. The Polish Miroslav, who has repeatedly broken the world record this season, came in third. Only Chinese player Zhou Yafei broke into the quarterfinals.
In the all-around event, the top three men are Schubert of Austria, Duffy of the United States and Tomoya Narasaki of Japan, and the top three of women are Tokyo Olympic champion Garn Brett, Pilz of Austria and Aya Mori of Japan. Qualified for the Paris Olympics. Chinese players Pan Yufei and Luo Zhilu missed the final.
“Facing the double mental pressure brought by the World Championships and the Olympic qualifying competition, the team members were a little bit reluctant to let go, and their performance was slightly lower than their due strength.” Wang Yunlong, the leader of the national rock climbing team, told reporters after the game. “In the next step, the Chinese rock climbing team will summarize this World Championships, pay attention to the training details, strengthen the psychological quality and on-the-spot resilience of the players, and devote themselves to the preparation training for the Asian Games and the Asian Olympic Qualifying Tournament, striving to fill the eight competition seats as soon as possible. .”
2023-08-14 08:18:14
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