1 year after losing the concession of the kiosk selling the famous pan bagnat, “Chez Félix” opens in another place. The Allais family had served for 50 years in the Magnan district. From now on, it is on avenue Jean Jaurès that this real Nice institution is bouncing back thanks to its loyal customers.
Jean-Charles Allais and his wife Marie, bustle between tomatoes, radishes, round bread rolls, anchovies and hard-boiled eggs. You have to get your bearings in this new location. We feel energy to spare, the desire to start, a new adventure, and the impatience to find loyal customers.
“It’s thanks to the support we’ve received for months and months that we’re hereexplains the son of Felix. We received hundreds of phone calls asking if we were going to open somewhere else, if we had found a new location, when were we going to start preparing our pan bagnat again. All this encouragement warmed our hearts. That’s what pushed us, at our age, to continue the adventure at Felix’s.”
“It’s the death of the kiosk to Felix. He must be turning in his grave” expressed a customer in tears at the announcement of the loss of the concession by the Allais family. “My parents used to take us there to eat pan bagnat, and I come here with my children now.”
A year ago, on June 20, 2022, Jean-Charles and Marie left, the heart in tatters, the 9 m² kiosk which had seen four generations of gourmets pass by. A clientele, modest, simple, popular, attached to the traditions of Nice and its culinary heritage.
The Madeleine and Magnan districts oscillated between sadness, disgust and anger. A petition was circulating, collecting hundreds of signatures. The town hall was challenged loud and clear. It must be said that since 1966 when Felix and his wife, Mathilde, had founded the kiosk in pan bagnat, it had become more than an institution. The local reference for the famous round vegetable sandwich that is the pride of the people of Nice! More importantly, an essential place of social connection in these districts far from the city center.
Felix and Mathilde had even bought this little piece of space close to the fire station and the Jean Médecin swimming pool.
And then, Jean-Charles, their son had joined them, and then he had married, and then his wife, Marie, in turn, had joined the rest of the family in this piece of paradise. Everyone was busy in the small kiosk and chatting with customers.
Customers, explains Marie, her eyes shining with emotion, are not customers. They became friends over the decades. They are still waiting for Jean-Charles to tell anecdotes. Me, the little grannies, I mother them, it’s in my nature. They tell me their stories, I listen to them. My in-laws were like that too. It’s a way of being. We take the time.
And then the rules of the game changed. Brutal. Iniquitous. Forgot the purchase of the kiosk by Felix and Mathilde. Hello the measures for awarding concessions on the public domain and the law of calls for tenders.
Félix and Marie make an honest proposal, which will not be accepted. At the end of February 2022, the ax cuts through: after 56 years of operation, the curtain falls. Jean-Charles and Marie are in shock.
“Fortunately my parents didn’t see that, said Jean-Charles, when leaving the premises.”
On June 29, 2022 he hands over the keys to the kiosk in front of an audience of tearful customers. It’s the end of an era and of a certain humanity.
The affair turns into a scandal and becomes quasi-political. Elected officials and officials take sides. Some even speak of modifying the law with regard to seniority in places. The town hall pointed out can be seen compelled to propose fallback solutions. None will satisfy Felix’s son. “I am soon to retire said Maryit is sure that if there had not been all this support, the love of all these friends-clients, of all these faithful, I do not know what we would have become.
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“From October, we started looking for a place, explains Jean-Charles. In Magnan, we could see the sea. We couldn’t take a place that overlooked a wall. And when we found this little place, all in length, opposite the Massena high school, and the green belt, we understood that it was the right one. There was a 2 month delay in the work. The neighboring businesses welcomed us with great kindness. That, too, warms our hearts.”
We feel their sensitivity not far from overflowing… Open for a few hours, word of mouth has barely spread throughout the city and customers flock to the small shop.
“I was really in mourning said this customer when entering the shop”, beaming face. “I knew his parents, says another.
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Soft and crispy bread, vegetables and hard-boiled egg very finely sliced, generous seasoning, joy slung over your shoulder… Laughter has replaced the tears, even if, in the eyes of Marie and Jean-Charles, they are never very far away, so much the emotion is strong.
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Avenue Jean Jaurès has now found an extra soul. Tradition and heritage have won. Felix and son are back!
2023-06-01 02:20:06
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