As the 2023 harvest is about to begin, Burgundy winegrowers are finding it increasingly difficult to meet national and international demand, which has been rising steadily in recent years. And the price follows the same path. Not helped by global warming, winegrowers are hoping for a good year to get back on their feet.
A stone-clad cellar from the end of the 19th century. Within it dozens of barrels ringed with wood. But to the great displeasure of Laurent Lignier, these are completely empty or almost. Like many of his colleagues in Burgundy, he can no longer meet the ever-increasing demand for local vintages. In question, previous harvests too weak to last over time. If the climate plays a major role in the situation, it is not solely responsible for it. Everyone is crossing their fingers that this year’s harvest will rebalance the balance.
This deep lack in the vats, the winegrowers had probably already anticipated. After the drought of 2019 and a far too limited harvest the following year, the coup de grace came in 2021. Following a particularly virulent episode of frost during the month of April, the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits, for cite only them, record nearly 50% of losses: “early spring frosts are quite usual. Only, with global warming, the winters are very warm and very mild with little frost. The vines therefore grow much earlier and are much more sensitive afterwards.“explains Laurent Lignier, operator of the Hubert Lignier estate in Morey-Saint-Denis.
We have had to deal with these conditions for about ten years.
Laurent Lignier
Paradoxically, these early heats improve the quality of the wines: “theThe wine is less acidic and has a much silkier tannin” develops the winegrower. In fact, the demand is increasing despite more than limited quantities in recent years.
Despite limited harvests, the quality is there. • © Valentin Casanova – France Televisions
It is constantly growing so well that on the market, demand has exceeded supply. Export increases, as does the number of exporters: “simply cut the cake into smaller pieces. It broadens the diversity“. With nearly one and a half billion euros raised solely through their export in 2022, Burgundy wines are popular abroad. While the United States and Japan remain the leading international consumers, others countries, especially Asian ones, are gaining more and more ground.
At the time, my father was working with ten countries. Today we are up to 35.
However, its biggest customer remains France. With 20% of sales, the country of Enlightenment outdistances its drink-loving competitors: “no matter the size of the crops, I always reserve 20% for France. I rely on it a lot because the local client is reliable and regular” Satisfied Laurent Lignier. He nevertheless admits to being surprised by the destination of some of his vintages: “we deliver to many regions that were not really customers before, like Bordeaux for example“.
The state of the vines will be particularly scrutinized during the summer. • © Valentin Casanova – France Televisions
Naturally, the rarity of the product also determines its price. And Burgundy wines are no exception to this universal rule. Adrien Tirelli, master cellarman at “Clos Vivants” in Dijon, has noticed this for a long time: ” we are on an increase of 30 to 40% over the last four or five years. And that’s only for village appellations. For Premiers and Grands Crus, it is even more important“. For example, a Hautes Côtes de Nuits is around €20, whereas it was €13 four years ago.
Many appellations have seen their prices soar in the face of growing demand. • © Valentin Casanova – France Televisions
To manage to regulate demand, a solution seems clear: that the 2023 harvest is sufficiently supplied to make the wine flow again in the barrels. And obviously, it went rather well: “these are not large quantities for the moment but it is regular. We will be on an even more generous season than in 2022” says Laurent Lignier. He hopes that, combined with that of the previous year, the harvest will be enough to “appease the markets“.
We much prefer to have wines in the cellars than empty barrels.
Laurent Lignier
For this, the climate will once again be at the center of all attention. For the moment, diseases such as mildew or powdery mildew do not seem to affect the Côte-d’Or plants. To the delight of the winegrower: “we have more than a month and a half before the first harvest. We cross fingers“.
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