When autumn arrives, the La Newyorkina company changes its ice creams and popsicles with churros, biscuits and, of course, pan de muertos.
“Bread of the dead is my favorite bread, as they say, in the world,” said Fany Gerson, chef and founder of La Newyorkina.
Fany Gerson’s smile says it all.
Originally from Mexico City, this chef prepares sweet and fluffy loaves together with her work team. Some will be enjoyed and others used as offerings to celebrate those who left on the Day of the Dead.
“In Mexico, the days of the dead tradition is a celebration because it is a celebration of life. People go to cemeteries and have a party. It’s a literal party in the pantheon, where they bring food, drink, whatever the person they’re celebrating prefers, ”Gerson explained. “The bread of the dead is something that is present in almost all, if not all offerings.”
There are many variations of bread and, from Brooklyn, La Newyorkina makes the most popular in Mexico, the one that has the essence of orange blossom and orange in addition to milk, eggs, flour, sugar and other ingredients. Fany also offers a version filled with Mexican chocolate.
“For me, making this bread is something very special. I feel like living outside Mexico, in a way, has brought me closer to him, ”Gerson added.
In 2009, Fany toured her hometown to closely investigate traditional flavors and recipes.
Thus was born the first of his three books, ‘My Sweet Mexico’.
“That experience of spending so much time, meeting so many wonderful people, interviewing them, I mean, I felt I had a mission, beyond a desire, but a mission to continue sharing the sweetness of Mexico, which I always say it sounds very mundane, but well, I’ve always been a bit mushy and that’s how I’ve lived it ”.
Throughout the month of October the oven is active, molding the bread with the fingers of bone and sugar glaze, ready to be delivered; in particular November 1 and 2, official dates of the Day of the Dead which began in pre-Hispanic times.
The loaves are distributed throughout New York and also in other corners of the United States, where anxious people await them to celebrate this tradition that long ago crossed the borders of Mexico.
