Today, the 22nd of Cheshvan, marks the 97th Yahrzeit anniversary of the third Rebbe of Belz, Yisachar Dov Rokach, who passed away in Galicia. For years, an extensive commemoration occurred annually at his gravesite in the Jewish cemetery in Belz, Ukraine, until the eruption of the conflict in Ukraine. This year, the observance was more subdued, with only two minibusses attending, leaving me puzzled about how the Hasidim managed to reach there. Hopefully, when the wars in Gaza and Ukraine conclude, many more Jews will resume their travels to Belz
Rabbi Yisaschar Dov Rokach, known as the “Maari”d,” was
among the greatest Rebbes, leading Belz to become one of Europe’s largest Hasidic communities during his days. Revered as a righteous figure of his generation, his influence was unparalleled. Countless sought his blessings and sought his counsel, and it was said during his days that “no grass grows on the path to Belz, trampled by the countless wagons and travelers.” He also headed the “Machzikey HaDat” (upholders of the religion). In our generation, his name bears the epithet ‘the first,’ setting him apart from the present Rebbe, known as ‘the second.’ I
The legacy of the Rebbe from Belz extends beyond the immediate community, impacting those associated with Belz Hasidism. Even in our studies at Hesder yeshivas and Bnei Akiva yeshivas, the teachings of the ‘Shita Mekubetset‘ in the tractates of Nezikin were influential. Authored by Ridbaz’s father, we are all, in essence, students of the Rebbes of Belz
Belz is situated approximately 80 kilometers north of Lviv, and remains a tranquil town accessible by train or car from Lviv to the nearby town of Chervonohrad, about a half-hour’s drive to the west. Once part of Poland and Galicia, in 1939 it became part of Ukraine. The town, now home to less than 2,500 residents, primarily comprises farmers. Upon entering, the landscape is mostly scattered with shacks, many adorned with rusted tin roofs, with a scarcity of stone houses. Multi-story buildings are rare, except for public structures. Each house typically features a personal vegetable garden at its front and adjoining fields, primarily cultivating crops like potatoes and cabbage. The fragrance of cow dung lingers near some houses, emanating from the grazing cows in their yards. Horse-drawn carts are a more common sight on the streets than cars, giving the impression that time has stood still in this place
During a recent conversation, our non-Jewish driver in northern Ukraine mentioned that Belz remained untouched by Russian bombs during the Ukraine war. He explained that the town’s lack of strategic importance didn’t attract Russian attention. As a result, everything appears unchanged from my visit several years ago
The resting place of the Maarid is situated in the Admorim section of the Jewish cemetery, where four adjacent graves of Rebbes stand. Rabbi Yisachar Dov’s tombstone lies second from the right, surrounded by a low black iron fence. During special occasions and holidays, glass-framed iron structures are carefully arranged over the graves, akin to protective aquariums, shielding the candles and flames from the wind
The Jewish cemetery is located on Mitskevycha Street, at the corner of Vulytsya Polova. Once filled with tombstones, only a few remain in their original positions today
During the Communist era, local people stole tombstones to use them as building materials and pavement for their houses. Over the years, a few of the stolen tombstones were found, and the municipality brought them back to the cemetery. Because the exact location of the graves is unknown, the tombstones were placed to the side near the fence behind the ‘Cohanim’s tent’ in a small wooden shed
If the cemetery gate is locked, please call Mr. Prokof’k at +38-03257-52417. i
Beyond the cemetery’s fence, heading south, in recent years, ‘Beit Menachem‘ (Hostel) was built, offering hot drinks, refreshments, and cookies at all times. Full meals are also available for individuals and groups, but advance reservations are required. Accommodation at an affordable price can also be arranged there. Additionally, there is a synagogue, a Beyt Midrash (study hall) and even a Mikveh (ritual bath)
In Belz stood one of the largest and most magnificent synagogues in Europe, called ‘By Groyse Shtib‘ (The biggest synagogue). Adjacent to it, the Rebbe’s house was built. During World War I, the large synagogue in Belz and the Rebbe’s house were used as a military hospital
The magnificent synagogue was destroyed over the years by various assailants, but the space it occupied is still preserved. To reach the space where the large and magnificent synagogue stood, one must travel to the Snovkopski Church, with its prominent spire on the town’s skyline. From there, turn left towards the west. The fourth house on the right is the Stopniv School, next to which is a football field. Behind them is the space where the large and magnificent synagogue stood, part of it enclosed by a low red stone wall
Across the street stands the municipal building, with a prominent tower built of red bricks. The address: Ukrposhta, Street
Next to the space stood a building that housed the old ‘Good Yisaschar‘ mikveh, but today, everyone prefers to immerse in the modern mikveh at the guest hostel
Beyond these landmarks, Belz offers little in terms of attractions. Yet, it holds a secondary significance for Israeli tourists, serving as a stopover for those seeking to pay respects at Rabbi Nachman of Braslav’s grave in Uman, or for Jewish travelers exploring Lviv. For them, Belz is merely an ancillary pitstop. Ukraine boasts beautiful cities, enchanting forests, and ancient castle-dotted mountains, but these treasures lie beyond the vicinity of Belz. Nearby, the town of ‘Chelm,’ famous for its anecdotes, now holds no allure, rendering a visit there an unproductive use of time
During World War I, the conflict reached Belz, prompting the Rebbe’s relocation to Munkács in Hungary. Tensions escalated between the Rebbe of Munkács, resulting in a courtroom dispute that brought dishonor to the Jewish community. Eventually, the Belz Rebbe settled in the town of Ratzfert
Despite our reverence for Belz Hasidism, it’s plausible to assume that our visit a century ago might not have been met with a warm reception. The Rebbe staunchly opposed Zionism, the Mizrachi movement, and ‘Maskilim’ secular education. He told his followers that in the prayer “Lamalshinim” (And for the slanderers, let there be no hope), one should focus on the “impurity of Zionism”. His outspokenness against Rabbi Kook, labeling him an “Apikores,” surprised many due to his esteemed rabbinical position
The Rebbe also harbored animosity towards Agudat Yisrael, aligning our sentiments. His vehement opposition to the establishment of ‘Agudat Yisrael’ in Poland, led by the Gur Rebbe and other Polish Rebbes, stemmed from perceiving the organization as too compromising with secularists. He viewed the collaboration between Agudas Yisrael and the ‘Ashkenazi Doctors’ as antithetical to Hasidism. His resistance extended even to the ‘Daf Yomi’ (daily Talmud study), citing its origins from the heads of Agudas Yisrael as a reason for opposition
In 1925, the Rebbe returned to Belz and passed away there a year later. His son, Rabbi Aharon, assumed leadership as the new Rebbe, carrying forth his father’s staunch stance against Zionism. Following in his father’s footsteps, Rabbi Aharon prohibited his followers from immigrating to the Holy Land, and tragically, almost all of them fell victim to the Holocaust. The once grand and illustrious Belz Hasidic community was nearly obliterated, including the entire lineage of the Rebbe’s family
Despite the horrors of the Holocaust, Rabbi Aharon managed to evade the Nazis, aided by Chabad’s 6th Rebbe, Yosef Izhak Sneorson. He wandered across Europe before finally settling in Tel Aviv. Establishing a compound on Hachad Haham Street, Rabbi Aharon struggled to gather a small group of Hasidim, predominantly Holocaust survivors from Hungary. Lacking a yeshiva at that time, the Rebbe directed the youth to study at the ‘Sefath Emet’ Yeshiva of Gur Hasidim and the Dushinsky Yeshiva
Rabbi Aharon, having no children, led the elders of the Hasidic community to appoint his 9-year-old nephew, Yisaschar Dov (the second), with the honorary title ‘The Yenuka from Belz.’ I recall him vividly as a child, engaged in spirited games of hide-and-seek along Yochanan Ben Zakkai Street in Bnei Brak
Upon his marriage, he ascended to Admor (Grand Rabbi). Under his leadership, Belz Hasidism thrived, now encompassing 7,500 families and ranking as the fifth-largest Hasidic group worldwide. They pray from the ‘Avodat Hashem’ prayer book with its distinctive text. While much aligns with the Sephardic tradition like ours, aspects like the Amidah prayer and the new moon blessing follow the Ashkenazi version
In 1988, a pivotal moment unfolded within the Israeli Litvaks (Lithuanian Jews) as they separated from the Agudas Yisrael party, forming the ‘Degel HaTorah‘ party. Concurrently, the Belz Hasidism joined this new faction, sparking astonishment and resentment across the Hasidic community. Eventually, the Belz Hasidism realigned with Agudas Yisrael, operating under the umbrella of the “The Jews of HaTorah” faction. Rabbi Yisrael (Srulik) Eichler represents them in the Knesset
The epicenter of the Hasidic movement now thrives in Kiryat Belz, Jerusalem. Here, the World Center stands tall, a majestic tribute meticulously designed to replicate the original ‘Groyse Shtib’ in the town of Belz. Over 16 years, under the watchful guidance of the Admor and contractor Eliyahu (Liyu) Klein, owner of Akaa Real Estate and a key figure in Belz’s leadership, this magnificent structure emerged. It stands as both a synagogue and a revered study hall, a towering presence etched into Jerusalem’s skyline, an unmistakable sight for those approaching via Highway 443 or from the Ramot neighborhood
The building’s roof boasts a regal “crown,” mirroring the architectural detail of the original Belz synagogue. Surrounding the study hall, Liyu orchestrated the construction of the majority of Kiryat Belz’s buildings, now home to approximately a thousand Hasidic families. For the Hasidim, this edifice signifies much more than mere construction; it embodies their pride and the honor of Belz
Quite rightly
Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons
