Through Camille Larher
Published on
–
–
–
“Today, there are no more Dieppe herrings at the fair, you have to do it! », Says Sébastien Hérouard, fishmonger in the Janval district. Every year, he grills this fish, celebrated with great fanfare on the weekend of November 13 and 14, 2021, To Dieppe (Seine-Maritime).
At L’Écaille d’Or, on the sidewalk in front of the store, he sets up “the locomotive” as it is called: a large barbecue that runs from 3 pm to 8 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday. Since Wednesday, October 3, Sébastien Hérouard has been carrying on a tradition dating back to 1989, which he holds from his father, also a fishmonger.
Fish from Boulogne-sur-Mer
His herring, he went to get it from Boulogne-sur-Mer. The first landings took place in the morning. But instead of the 15 cases planned, only eight were delivered to him. “Everyone is tearing it off,” he notes.
Indeed, many events have taken place since last weekend, such as in the supermarkets of Auchan, Intermarché or even E. Leclerc. “And demand drives up prices,” adds Sébastien Hérouard. The cost of transportation, plastic and aluminum are driving up the charges.
So this year, for the first time since 2001, the fishmonger will also review its prices upwards, ie € 1 for raw herring and € 1.50 for grilled or marinated fish. “I couldn’t help it,” he said. And it went like a letter in the mail. No customer complained ”. According to him, the herring tradition remains popular and still arouses as much enthusiasm:
“Some people come to the fishmonger only at this time of the year, to mark the occasion. “
Global warming
If the herring is more than ever at the party this year, the fair having been canceled in 2020, the fish will undoubtedly not be from Dieppe but from Boulogne-sur-Mer. “With global warming, it descends more and more later off our coasts”, emphasizes Philippe André, the director of Intermarché, in Rouxmesnil-Bouteilles. He had to postpone the start of the festivities in front of the sign. “It’s getting harder and harder to find herring,” he laments.
Schools of fish move from the North Sea to northern France in November. But the date is no longer really reliable. Every year, we wonder if there will be herring at the fair. If the Boulogne boats are less and less numerous to practice this fishing, in Dieppe it has become extremely rare. At this time of year, ships are armed with the scallop, which is much more profitable.
The scallop is a must
Maybe the Daniel Auguste II, from the shipowner Dieppe Marée, will make one or two “features” for the fair and its customers. Provided that the benches are sufficiently lowered. “Little by little, the quotas have been revised downwards”, also explains the fishing boss. Patrick Dameuve, denouncing European measures.
In the city of Ango, the coquille takes up all the space from October to May. “This specialization kills the port”, thinks fishmonger Sébastien Hérouard. A particularly expensive white gold at the start of the season. “Herring is more popular,” he smiles. Its flesh fed entire families inexpensively ”.
Philippe André, from Intermarché, would like a reflection to be carried out to postpone the date of the fair in the coming years. “Around November 20, we are sure to have some,” says the fishmonger of Janval. Right now, it’s the battle! “
The dories of Quiberville, Saint-Aubin-sur-Mer and Veules-les-Roses will be able to provide some, when the fish will be brought down “in front of our house”. Prices will have had time to drop by then, as demand is lower. But the legendary Dieppe herring fair will be over …
Has this article been useful to you? Please note that you can follow Les Informations Dieppoises in the Mon Actu area. In one click, after registration, you will find all the news of your favorite cities and brands.
–
