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AFP
Published on
14 Feb 2023
At New York Fashion Week, Palomo Spain is inspired by his childhood, while Tory Burch never stops reinventing himself.
Tory Burch continues its transformation and dares
Quite predictable for a long time, American designer Tory Burch continues her reinvention that she began a few seasons ago. Her new collection presented in a former bank branch was made up of very assertive, even imposing silhouettes, far from the bohemian lightness that characterizes her.
To create these looks, she had chosen opulent materials, a lot of satin, wool or leather. “We deconstructed the traditional wardrobe to rebuild it with an unfinished side,” explained the adopted New Yorker in the collection notes.
“I wanted women who weren’t corseted by rules, who asserted their individuality, to make it a strength,” she told AFP after the parade.
The one who will celebrate the 20th anniversary of her house next year wanted to slip details into her outfits that celebrate “the beauty of imperfection”.
Recurring motifs from this theme, belts, worn in an ostensibly asymmetrical way, XXL safety pins, or two unequal lapels of the collar of the same coat.
But Tory Burch affirms above all a totally controlled audacity, which gives his pieces a powerful creative breath.
Striking example, green fringes that protrude from the bottom of a long black dress, with a deep cut in the back that reveals a mesh back, also green. Another prominent piece, a green satin dress with long sleeves and a very high collar, looking like a glamorous cassock.
As she allows herself to experiment, Tory Burch attracts a new generation of fashionistas and a younger audience.
“It’s super exciting,” she said of that welcome. “It’s a creative reinvention for me,” she adds, claiming to take “a lot more risks.”
Palomo Spain’s childhood
His father’s quilts, sheets and large shirts are all childhood memories that inspired the latest collection of young Spanish designer Palomo Spain. From plush towels in which he wrapped himself as a child, he made colorful coats with embroidery; outerwear fabrics have been worked to make a sophisticated suit; a men’s XL poplin shirt, was turned inside out, as he did with his father’s.
The star of the collection? A quilt-like coat, or rather, a coat-like quilt, like the one he used to “dress or disguise himself when he was little and stayed home alone,” he explained to the media. AFP the designer, who parades this season in New York. From his studio in Posadas, his hometown in southern Spain, 30-year-old Alejandro Gómez Palomo wants to create to exceed standards.
“We don’t live in the 19th century anymore, where it was established that men had to wear a suit,” he says. “Why can’t men wear a skirt or a dress?” he also asks. New York, 14 Feb 2023 (AFP)
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