Since 1960, meat consumption worldwide has increased dramatically, even in Asian countries who traditionally followed vegetarian diets. This increase is certainly related to the rapid multiplication of the world population. In 1950 there were only 2.5 billion people living on earth, a number that today exceeds 8 billion and is expected to reach 9.7 billion in 2050. We now know that meat production has a large impact on the environment and our health, which led experts to formulate new recommendations on meat-eating. This is how artificial meat entered the public debate, as a method of reducing meat consumption. Most of you will have seen soy mince or pea “chicken bites” in supermarkets. These are vegan options that try to mimic the taste and texture of meat. But, we are not talking about this artificial meat here. Today, the “artificial” or “synthetic” meat increasingly refers to meat produced from the stem cells of living animals.
To many, the above may sound like a science fiction scenario. “But can we make real meat in vitro?” And, indeed, the idea of synthetic meat can be found in many works of science fiction, from Kurd Laßwitz to Margaret Atwood. David Lynch showed us “synthetic chickens” in the movie Eraserhead, while the kitchen of the spaceship Enterprise in Star Trek includes synthetic meat for the crew.
Still others will recognize that through this method, we can enjoy our favorite carnivore foods without worrying about the ethical issues that arise from traditional animal husbandry. Based on the above, synthetic meat could be a sustainable alternative to reduce the consumption of conventional animal meat. The first country to allow the sale of synthetic meat was Singapore in 2020, with the Netherlands giving the conditional green light in the summer of 2023, according to Vegconomist. So, if synthetic meat is such a great invention then why hasn’t it managed to enter our daily diet so far?
What is artificial meat?
Synthetic or artificial meat is a product created in the laboratory from animal stem cells, extracted from the thigh section of the animal and multiplied in a controlled environment. Therefore, this meat has no bones, tissues or fat. In the 2010s, synthetic meat was touted as a world-saving breakthrough, with investors such as Bill Gates and Leonardo DiCaprio. The first laboratory burger was presented in 2013 in London. It consisted of 10,000 strips of myotubes grown in a hydrogel. Colorants, flavors and ingredients were added to it to give it the desired texture.
The technology used to produce artificial meat is still in the development stage. Because of this, it is difficult to know exactly how the production and sale of artificial meat will develop in the future. In any case, the goal of those responsible is to create meat as close as possible to what we know, both in the texture and variety of the final products, as well as in its biological and nutritional composition.
By the way, the production of synthetic meat is very expensive— in 2008 it cost $1 million to make a 250g beef fillet! The In Vitro Meat Consortium had assured that, once the technology allows, there will be significant reductions in the price of synthetic meat. Today, synthetic meat Costs about $63 a kilo to produce.
In vitro meat for a greener planet?
Did you know that raising cattle is responsible for 18% of carbon emissions, putting more of a burden on the environment than transportation? About 26% of the planet’s ice-free land is used for grazing and 33% of all arable land is used for growing animal feed (FAO, 2018a). There can be no doubt that livestock farming can be particularly destructive to the environment, not to mention the ethical issues that arise.
International organizations are increasingly recognizing the need to reduce emissions from the livestock sector and some interventions are being proposed (FAO, 2018b). Research indicates that the environmental impact of meat farming will be significantly less than that of animal slaughter. In fact, studies by the Universities of Oxford and Amsterdam believe that meat farming is “potentially … a more efficient and environmentally friendly solution”, with carbon emissions limited to 4%, energy consumption reduced by up to 45%, while at the same time, space will be saved.
It’s a political issue
Earlier in February, Florida banned artificial meat with Republican Gov. Ron DeSantis declaring that “We’re not going to accept any fake meat. It doesn’t work like that here.” What’s happening in Florida is part of a larger policy to thwart the burgeoning synthetic meat industry. Last month, lawmakers in Arizona introduced a similar ban, while Tennessee is pushing to ban the production of synthetic meat with a $1 million fine for violators.
This protectionism contrasts with the usual policies of Western states, which promote entrepreneurship and innovation in the competitive, free market. Moreover, these bans seem somewhat “hollow” when you consider that synthetic meat is not even available for sale in the US.
The Italian parliament also banned the production and sale of synthetic meat, in what Giorgia Meloni says is an attempt to highlight her country’s culinary traditions. The Italian agriculture minister supported the decision, adding that he hoped the European Union would follow suit with similar rules. This ban pleased farmers but was met with backlash from some activists. “The government should let Italians decide what they want to eat, rather than stifling consumer freedom,” said Alice Ravenscroft, head of policy at the Good Food Institute (GFI) Europe. After Italy, France and Austria submitted a proposed law to ban artificial meat.
Other European countries seem to be adopting a different attitude. In Denmark, the company Remilk invests in the production of synthetic milk, produced without cows, while in Germany the company Bluu Seafood makes fish croquettes grown in vitro. In addition, the governments of the Netherlands, the United Kingdom and Spain are pouring millions of euros into the financing of synthetic meat.
In February 2023, Commission Commissioner Mariya Gabriel stated that research “to improve knowledge on the possible environmental and health impacts of farmed meat and farmed seafood” is already being funded by the EU. According to her words, the European Union seemed positive in the adoption of artificial meat, as a more sustainable source of protein and other nutrients.
Yet, exactly one year later, the EU appears to be backtracking on the promotion of artificial meat. According to his report POLITICO, a draft proposal for 2040 climate targets, said the EU should ensure “the right incentives” so that citizens can follow healthier diets, based on diversified protein intake, a more affordable option for consumers ». The phrase “differentiated protein intake” was removed from the final document.
When will it arrive on our plate? Probably never!
The above, however, may not directly affect the average consumer, since the moment when the artificial meat will reach our neighborhood butcher is still late. Its expensive price, as mentioned above, is a pretty important reason for this. Besides, a lot of energy consumption is required for its production. We are talking about huge energy-consuming bioreactors, sophisticated machines and large production facilities. In addition, the approval of artificial meat will be an even more difficult and time-consuming process, especially in the European Union, as many member states will want to protect the interests of domestic meat industries. It is clear that the growth of synthetic foods (not just meat) endangers the jobs of millions of farmers, ranchers, fishermen and other workers. This is something that lawmakers need to take seriously.
After all, why didn’t synthetic meat get the same acceptance as plant-based milk? Think about it: although initially promoted as a product for vegans, plant-based milk was soon embraced by a larger portion of the population. Today, more and more people drink soy, almond or oat milk, preferring it to animal milk. Something like this could not happen with synthetic meat for several reasons. Plant milk is not only addressed to vegans and vegetarians, but to any person who cannot or does not want to consume animal milk (intolerance, allergy, irritable bowel syndrome, diet, etc.). Finally, synthetic meat seems to be troubling both vegetarians and meat eaters. On the one hand, vegetarians turn their backs on it since it is, after all, a form of meat. On the other hand, meat eaters find it “unnatural” and find it hard to trust. Perhaps in 100 years our descendants will wonder how we chose to slaughter countless animals when we had the option of eating differently. Then again, maybe in the future the idea of in vitro meat will be a blunder invention like Google glasses and 3D TV.
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