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Are there still Italian nobles in Vienna?

Ein Lob den Veal escalopes with lemon in the Cantinetta Antinori.

It’s not a good idea to read your restaurant reviews ten years later. In 2012 I apparently visited the then good old Cantinetta Antinori and wrote the following more or less funny nonsense:

“Are there still Italian nobles in Vienna? [Das Fabios wurde gerade wieder einmal renoviert.]Cantinetta Antinori should be. The waiters still have the black irons and sometimes the proud bellies, the prices are high and the menu also includes a real Bolognese pasta, which of course is sold as pasta with meat sauce. […] The cuisine of the homonymous Italian winery and family in Florence and its surroundings is not really spectacular, it is more what the Viennese call “reliable”. That’s why ORF stars often visit the restaurant [?] It is celebrated [?] Artist. Maybe then they will eat the most boring and at the same time most lovable dish in Italy: veal escalopes with lemon, here with real fruit, sour and useless at the same time ».

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Hello? was she still ok? No wonder I was deprived of the restaurant review. (Probably the result of a Florence intervention.) There is no dish more delicious than tender veal escalope, oh what, veal chips, with the subtly meaty sauce of broth, butter and bits of pulp and lemon zest. It’s possible my taste buds are getting old with me, but the delicate seafood salad with potatoes and mint also makes the Italian soul happy. The same goes for the wonderful pici pici with garlic and chilli. Or the fillet of sea bass, not too spicy, with capers and olive oil.

Unlike the Croatians and the Greeks, the experienced Italian knows: no coarse garlic on fish. Or is it ethically-ethnically incorrect? It matters little, it is also clear that “reliability” can never be used negatively: from this point of view, the Cantinetta can / must / must absolutely be recommended, in the garden as in the opulent interiors. Stop me with these vegan ramen pop-up spots with chai latte, the country needs more wine cellars.

Information

Cantinetta AntinoriJasomirgottstraße 3/5, 1010 Vienna, Tel .: + 43 / (0) 1/533 77 22, Restaurant: every day from 11:30 to midnight

Other columns at: DiePresse.com/lokalkritiken

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(“The Press Showcase” from September 16, 2022)

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