Translated by
Veronique DOTRAUX
Published on
10 Feb 2023
For his return to the New York catwalks which unofficially inaugurated Fashion Week, Alexander Wang returned to familiar places. The Cupid’s Door fashion show was held on the corner of the street where the brand is headquartered in Chinatown, presenting its Pre-Fall and Fall 2023 women’s ready-to-wear collections as well as the relaunch of its men’s clothing line. This three-in-one event proves that Wang’s ultra-sleek, cool codes and streetwear soul are still very much alive. In this vein, the designer called on Julia Fox and Sydney Carlson from Wildflower Cases to take part in his show, as well as distinguished guests such as Ming Lee Simmons, Ava Max, Maliibu Miitch, Bloody Osiris, Saint Jhn, Deto Black, Nikita Dragun and Amanda Lepore.
In this month of love and romance, Wang transformed a small showroom on Elizabeth Street in Chinatown into a double heart-shaped catwalk using expertly arranged pink curtains. To add a sensual boudoir effect, the floor was covered with a zebra rug and synchronized colored lights gave the whole thing more intensity.
His first collection was mainly focused on outerwear, revisiting the big fur coat, which was fake of course. Coats, revealing toned, bare midriffs, looked particularly fierce amid the colorful python and zebra prints of low-rise cropped pants and pencil skirts. Fur was also present on denim jackets, to the point of looking bulky on a long jacket.
The designer combines popular clichés of her sporty side — like boxers sticking out from dressy pants — with tailoring in a hip strapless, cupless bra. Satin ruffled dresses display as much insolence as eroticism. Sheer bands playing hide and seek on bras and panties, oversized suit jackets, waistcoats and even a striped men’s shirt are staged with shimmering effects. The iconic platform mules and smooth bags with silver studs add a chic and robust touch that is very pragmatic.
This was also the case with the atmosphere that emanated from the various models. They channeled an energy reminiscent of gothic queens like Bettie Page and Wong Liu Tsong, better known as Anna May Wong, at least if they were still alive today to frequent clubs or halls. meeting from another galaxy.
Judging by the range of men’s casual wear, at Wang it’s the women who seem to be leading the dance while the males relax and bundle up in hoodies, fluffy fleeces and python jumpsuits, but why? not ? Despite this relaxed attitude, we could detect a touch of audacity in a shirtless male model whose sweatpants hung dangerously low.
For the final pass, Wang explored bangs and the heart shape in a group of women’s evening wear that turned out to be an exciting proposition with awards show season in full swing. Bustiers and posteriors sported the romantic symbol’s double bump and V-shape formed by overlapping strips of fringe while others sported extra-long fringe that swept across the carpet.
At the end of the male tableau, a red light took on the shape of a heart, as if pounding. Maison Wang may have been hesitant lately, but the love letter of the collection presented by its creator was not only a Valentine’s Day gift for the press, its distributors and its fans, but also the expression of his self-respect. Wang’s calling and business continue to grow — the brand will soon be moving to new headquarters and a new store has just opened in South Coast Plaza — while staying true to his vision.
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