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A chef from Montluçon (Allier) wins two Michelin stars in his restaurant in Dubai

Renaud Dutel grew up in a family of Bourbonnais farmers. The work of the land and the products of the garden rocked his childhood. “My father cooks a lot, he makes jars, he prepares our poultry…” A childhood spent surrounded by good products, which gave a strong taste to the passion of the young Montluçonnais.

But all the Bourbonnais who have one day eaten a tomato from the garden have not ended up, like Renaud, with two stars. “Cooking was all thought out for me. I had no hesitation. »

Internship in a restaurant in Saint-Victor

At just 16 years old, Renaud Dutel joined the Saint-Vincent high school in Montluçon (Allier), to pass a BEP in cooking. During an internship with chef Larose, at the Jardin Délice in Saint-Victor, his motivation only grew. “He made me want to go from school to apprenticeship. He always had the words to guide me. After a four-month detour to Ireland, where the young cook was able to develop his English, Renaud Dutel joined the interprofessional training institute (Ifi) in Moulins. He passed a professional baccalaureate there, always accompanied by Benoît Larose.

I met people who guided me. Benoît Larose gave me good advice… which I always follow!

In 2011, he won an award of excellence for his results. He then takes knives and saucepans to Cannes or Avignon, to do the seasons for two years. “It gives a different vision of the profession. It’s very intense in terms of work, but also humanly. Working like that, it allows you to create links, ”supports the young chef.

With Alain Ducasse

On the strength of his first experiences, he joined the team of the famous Alain Ducasse in Monaco for two years. But Renaud Dutel on the move. In 2015, aged 23, he left the three-star restaurant Louis XV to go to Switzerland. Until 2017, he continued to sharpen his knives at Le Roc restaurant. “I learned a different cuisine there. Banquets, caterers, Asian dinners… It was very instructive! To close the loop, the cook returns to Monaco, to find Alain Ducasse, for a year.

Turn of fate

It was at this point that fate placed an unusual opportunity in Renaud Dutel’s path. He was offered a position as sous-chef in a restaurant set up by Yannick Alléno, a three-star chef… In one of Dubai’s most prestigious hotels.The young chef likes to share French know-how with his brigade, whose members come from all over the world.

At first hesitant, his partner, a cook, convinced him to take the plunge, in March 2018. “She was the one who pushed me, she said to me ‘But yes, it’s going to be great, go for it!’ he smiles. In March, he went more than 5,000 kilometers away. “I evolved quickly enough to become a brigade leader. Today, I have a team of seven people. »

Cooking was all thought out for me. I had no hesitation.

Russian, Greek, Indian, Sri Lankan… His teammates bring him great openness. “I am the only Frenchman. It allows a cultural mix, between us, but also for the kitchen. It’s really great to infuse French know-how. They are very good cooks but not all have had the opportunity to hone their skills as I had the chance to do. »

Au Stay, this restaurant housed in a five-star hotel, the kitchen brigade is not the only one to be cosmopolitan. “We have customers who come from all over the world. Rather wealthy people, who know the gastronomy of different cultures! »

Rewarded work

In June 2022, for the first edition of the Michelin Guide in the largest city in the United Arab Emirates, Renaud Dutel and his team were awarded two stars all at once. “It’s a real recognition of our work! It allows us to see that we are going in the right direction,” rejoices the young chef.

A double decoration that satisfies Renaud’s desires. If France sometimes misses the 30-year-old, who only returns once a year, he would only leave Dubai reluctantly. “We have a lot of preconceptions about the Emirates. When you live here, you discover simple people who are committed to helping their country grow. »

premium Former cook in a restaurant, she now offers workshops at her home in Montluçon (Allier)

The young leader remains modest. “I met people who guided me. Benoît Larose gave me good advice… which I always follow! When asked if he dreams of a third star, Renaud Dutel smiles. What he wants, above all, is to cook, again and again.

Delphine Simoneau

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