It is no exaggeration to say that wine history is divided into before and after 1976. A blind tasting competition held in Paris, France became a turning point. An unexpected event occurred in which American California wines won a landslide victory over French wines in both red and white categories. This incident, in which France, the absolute powerhouse in wine, was overthrown by the ‘underdog’, was reported as the ‘Judgment of Paris’ and changed the world wine market.
There was a separate winery that caught the attention of critics at the competition that day. Among the participating wineries, Primark Avi of Napa Valley, California was the only winery to rank in the top 10 in both red and white wine categories. It is a brand that not only has the ripe fruit aroma and multi-layered tannin aroma unique to Napa Valley wine, but also has a solid balance created by long aging. It is currently owned by American wine company Jackson Family Wine (JFW).
Primark Avi, whom I met at the ‘JFW Master Class’ held at the WSA Wine Academy in Jamwon-dong, Seoul on the 21st, showed that the result of ‘Judgment of Paris’ was not a coincidence. Three types of red wine, including ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’, ‘Boche’, and ‘Sycamore’, and ‘Chardonnay’ (white wine), tasted under the guidance of Master Sommelier Dmitry Menard (pictured), wrapped the tip of the tongue with intense flavor and stability.
“The most elegant Napa Valley wine”
View larger image Napa Valley is home to some of the best wineries in California, the largest wine producing area in the United States. Napa Valley’s wine production is only 4% of California’s, but it accounts for 25% of sales. This means that the value of individual vineyards is high. Menard sommelier said, “If I were to choose a world-class premium wine producing region, one would be Champagne in France, and the next would be Napa Valley.”
One of the wineries with a long history in Napa Valley is Primark Abi. It was founded in 1886 by Josephine Ticheson, America’s first female winemaker. She established a winery in California, where her husband, who suffered from tuberculosis, was recovering. Unfortunately, her husband passed away shortly after moving, and Titchison, who was left alone, started a wine business under the name ‘Redwood Winery’. The name comes from the surrounding terrain, which had an unusually large number of redwoods.
It received its current name in the late 1930s. When Prohibition was repealed, American brewers flocked to California. This is because it has natural conditions where cool winds blowing from the western Pacific Ocean and the dry climate of the eastern desert area meet. At this time, it became Primark Abbey, named after the three men who took over the Titchson Brewery: Charles Freeman, Marquand Foster, and Albert Abbey Aaron.
‘The most elegant Napa Valley wine’ is another name for Primark Abi. This is because it shows a subtle balance that is different from the typical Napa Valley wine, which is characterized by strong tannin (astringency) and rich body. Ted Edwards, who has been in charge of brewing for over 40 years since 1985, had a great influence. The current balanced style was achieved by blending wines from various production regions, including dry wineries in the lowlands and cool wineries in the hill regions.
Variety of balance, 3 types, 3 colors, attractive
The tasting session started with the white wine ‘Primark Abi Chardonnay 2022’. The stable flavor stood out as it was a blend of three types of wine grown in various soils, including clay and limestone. The soft texture you feel when you first put it in your mouth leads to a refreshing aftertaste after you swallow it. The Menard sommelier explained, “We mixed wine that had undergone lactic acid fermentation with wine that had not,” adding, “We sought the optimal ratio to create a taste that was soft and fresh like butter.”
Primark Avi’s representative red wine, ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’, showed the essence of balance. It is the result of combining lowland vineyards with large kernels and thin skin with highland varieties with a strong astringent taste. There was an overall sweet berry scent, followed by chocolate, cedar, and a bit of tobacco. It is a bonus that it has undergone a relatively long maturation period of more than two years. The 2013 vintage wine showed appropriate aging to the extent that now felt like the optimal time to open it.
The ‘Boche’ series is the product with the most outstanding earthy scent among the Primark Abi wines. It is named so because all of the wine is produced at the vineyard ‘Bosche’ located on Rutherford Hill in Napa Valley. This wine originates from land rich in gravel and clay, and is characterized by a deep ruby color and a flavor full of earthy minerals.
As it has high maturation potential, it produces a variety of flavors. This means that there may be differences of opinion in terms of consistency. On this day, I compared and tasted products from 2002 and 2019, and there was such a clear difference in taste that it was difficult to say that they were the same label. If you are looking for a spicy, smoky flavor, the 2002 vintage is suitable, and if you are looking for an acidity to accompany fatty foods, the 2019 vintage is suitable.
The series with the strongest acidity is ‘Sycamore’. This wine is entirely produced at Sycamore Vineyard, which adheres to dry methods such as not drawing water from nearby sources. The earthy scent created through oak maturation for about 30 months balances the sourness. Unlike other series, the yellowish golden color stands out. It goes well with steak, smoked duck, rich cheese, etc.
This is a series that deviates slightly from the sense of balance that Primark Avi boasts. On this day, we tasted three types of Sycamore, including the 1995 vintage, 2002, and 2019, and the acidity and body of some products were unexpected. Depending on your taste, you may feel that the aging is a bit excessive. If you are looking for a tangy scent that reaches the tip of your nose and a slightly astringent aftertaste, this is the perfect choice.
Reporter Ahn Si-wook [email protected]
