With summer comes the time for farmers’ markets. Supermarkets are full of seasonal produce. Some, certified organic, sell at high prices. It is therefore legitimate to ask whether organic fruits and vegetables are richer in nutrients than others. In short: yes. The subject is nevertheless more complex than it seems.
Although it may seem counterintuitive, regulations surrounding organic foods do not necessarily emphasize their health benefits. Current regulations take into account the way they are grown, mainly using compost and manure rather than synthetic chemicals, which helps protect the soil. On the other hand, if it is not possible to control invasive insects via natural means, pesticides may be authorized.
For consumers, the key motivating factor is the fact that these foods are better for their health. It is therefore important for scientists to understand whether this is true, explains Julia Baudry who studied the question at the National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment (INRAE), an independent organization.
Decades of research have blurred the lines. Some, particularly the very first ones, found only little nutritional differences between organic and non-organic foods. Others have argued that the benefits are immense. According to David Montgomery, a soil scientist at the University of Washington, this disparity likely reflects variations in land use practices on organic farms and, more importantly, in how nutrition is defined. “There are differences in what we actually measure and compare,” he says.
Overall, after carrying out a analyse for a scientific journal and its book What Your Food AteDavid Montgomery determined that organic crops and healthy soils contained fewer pesticide residues and higher amounts of antioxidant-rich phytochemicals, such as flavonoids and carotenoids.
“One might wonder whether the differences are significant enough to be cause for concern. But from my point of view, what is preferable is that my food contains no pesticides and, on the contrary, a lot of phytochemicals,” he says.
Of course, consuming any fruit or vegetable, especially in large quantities, is beneficial on many levels.
Certified organic produce has only really been available for about 20 years, says Dave Chapman, a longtime organic farmer in Vermont. Overall, organic foods cost around 20 % more than the others, partly because their production is more expensive.
Early studies that caused confusion about health benefits limited their analyzes to vitamins, minerals and macronutrients, such as carbohydrates and proteins.
In 2012, a review of 200 past studies confirmed that the levels of vitamins A and C, as well as minerals, notably calcium and iron, were not not significantly different between organic products and others.
Phytochemicals are natural organic compounds that are abundant in fruits and vegetables that help reduce inflammation, strengthen the immune system, and improve overall health. These have received less attention in these studies because they are not included in the recommended nutritional intakes.
When researchers looked specifically at these compounds, they found that biologics were 12 % richer, mainly carotenoids. People who ate foods not certified as organic for three weeks and then organic foods for the same period of time had lower levels of flavonoids higher in their urine after consumption of the second type of food.
According to David Montgomery, this follows a certain logic, with plants increasing the levels of these compounds to protect themselves from insects and diseases. Other crops do not need it because they are protected by synthetic chemicals.
The fact that phytochemicals are present in greater quantities could explain why Julia Baudry’s observational studies found lower levels cancers, particularly breastas well as type 2 diabetesin people who consume more organic foods. Some scientists criticize observational studies because people who regularly consume organic products differ in many ways from those who do not. They are, for example, generally wealthier and more educated and tend to take care of their health by exercising regularly.
Julia Baudry explains that she and her colleagues took care to take all of these elements into account. “We are very confident that we have considered the necessary factors in this research,” she says. However, such studies cannot prove cause and effect. As the researchers indicate in their résuméit would be necessary to carry out direct experiments to be able to affirm that a diet based on organic products allow a reduction in the number of diseases.
The improvement in the health of the people participating in Julia Baudry’s study is probably also explained by the fact that organic products generally do not contain synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. The 2012 study found that pesticide residues in non-organic produce were 30 percent higher than in organic produce, while other researchers found that levels of cadmium, a toxin found in some fertilizers that can s accumulate in the liver and kidneys, was 48% higher.
Most studies on the risks associated with these chemicals have been carried out on agricultural workers, who are much more exposed. A report dating from 2022 states health problems ranging from poor concentration and neurological symptoms to chest pain in farmers using organophosphate chemicals. The World Health Organization even considers some of these insecticides to be probably carcinogenic. Yet chemical concentrations in non-organic crops are generally below legal thresholds.
Tim LaSalle, co-founder of Center for Regenerative Agriculture and Resilient Systems from California State University, Chico, explains that consuming the healthiest foods possible means not just looking at whether products are labeled as organic, but finding out how they have been cultivated.
Dave Chapman, co-executive director of Real Organic Projectcompares the diversity of microorganisms present in healthy soil to that found in our intestines. “If our microbiome is not healthy, we are not healthy,” he explains. “The same goes for floors. »
This is why Dave Chapman deplores the fact that the organic label can be given to plants from hydroponics, a soilless cultivation system. These are fed artificially, usually with nitrogen. “The plants are suspended and basically fed through a tube,” he explains. “It’s not the idea we have of a vegetable garden.”
Consumers wanting products grown in the best soil should look for those from regenerative agriculture, whether certified organic or not, says Tim LaSalle. This practice places particular importance on the quality of the soil and, although it does not necessarily exclude pesticides and herbicides, such an ecosystem generally means that they do not have to be used, he explains.
Farmers practicing regenerative agriculture follow three basic principles: they do not turn or plow the land before planting because it kills organisms living near the surface; they use several varieties of cover crops between growing seasons because their roots nourish the soil with different compounds; and they keep plants in the ground as much as possible rather than leaving them fallow between harvests.
The term “regenerative” is not regulated, however, so it is possible to put this label on foods that do not meet the required conditions, laments Dave Chapman. Even if the term “organic” is regulated, the latter asserts that the application of the regulations is lax, particularly with regard to imported cereals.
To find the healthiest and tastiest products, Tim LaSalle advises going to the local market. Ask farmers not only if they avoid pesticides, but also if they till their land and what they do with it between growing seasons.
Britt Burton-Freeman, director of Center for Nutrition Research of the Illinois Institute of Technology, however, is concerned that the emphasis on organic produce is preventing people from eating enough fruits and vegetables. In its survey of 510 low-income shoppers, most said they preferred organic produce but couldn’t afford it, and some even said they were less inclined to buy fruits and vegetables due to the presence of pesticides. “Food marketers need to better understand how their messages can influence fruit and vegetable consumption,” she says.
People who can afford properly grown organic produce need to consider whether it’s worth spending more money, says David Montgomery. “If we want to eat as healthily as possible, we must prioritize a diet rich in fresh foods grown on healthy, fertile soils. »
