Where can you find good couscous in New York?

“The spirit of couscous is the feeling of life in society”. A beautiful UNESCO formula which added couscous traditions to the Organization’s list of intangible cultural heritage in 2020. It specifies: “Couscous is much more than a dish, it is a time, memories, traditions, knowledge, trends that are passed down from generation to generation. ” Everyone remembers couscous. Whether it’s a moment with friends in a neighborhood restaurant or a trip to the other side of the Mediterranean. This food that unites families, countries (this declaration was signed by Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria), this food that takes you on a journey, that we love to share, is one of the best dishes by the French. But really, what is good couscous?

Tunisian Chef Nordine Labiadh Credit Marielle Gaudry

A very controversial question because there are so many recipes and explanations. But one led us. Nordine Labiadh, author of Couscous for everyone (sun editions) and restaurant chef Medium in the 14th arrondissement of Paris. « Couscous is a good couscous that you want to taste immediately, the semolina smokes, it smells good, the spices, the meat, you salivate at the sight and the smell at first. “explains the Tunisian chef. As for the ingredients, they are seasonal. Zucchini in winter is only a substitute for butternut or even cabbage. “Why there are no eggplants in the summer”, Nordine recommended Labiadh. “My favorite version is small couscous with four vegetables, lamb shoulder cooked in broth. A whole onion melted in it, chickpeas, celery starch and a little peanut butter. The broth should be thick. This is the most authentic version. Workman’s couscous, everyday food.” Let him who has no water in his mouth be thrown his first day.

Unfortunately, such quality is not so easy to find in New York where the word “couscous” refers above all to semolina and all the dishes that use it use

Mogador Cafe

Couscous merguez at Mogador in Brooklyn. © Géraldine Bordère

The essential address in the East Village since 1983 and most recently in Williamsburg. This neighborhood institution, still run by the same family, offers all the classics of Moroccan cuisine. Small starters (mezze) like spicy carrots, tabbouleh, labné and zahatar or grilled halloumi. As for couscous, the editorial team chose the version with merguez served generously and as spicy as possible. Presented in a very traditional ceramic dish, this couscous makes up for its lack of broth by adding an original grape and onion compote.

Note: 6.5/10

Price: $25 for the merguez version

Plus: the onion compote. original. The price, reasonable.

The least: lack of rash.

Mogador Cafe101 St Marks Place and 133 Wythe Avenue

Gitane Cafe

Gypsy coffee couscous. © Géraldine Bordère

Generations of Berber grandmothers would have turned their graves if they had known how their specialty was being redefined on the other side of the Atlantic. This version of gypsy coffee is a distant cousin of the original. It’s delicious, served generously but apart from the semolina and the merguez, we don’t find much in common between them. Red peppers, candied eggplant, pine nuts, cumin and mint are mixed in a semolina dome that is more like a salad. Why not.

Note: 4/10

Price: $18 for the vegetarian version, + $5 for the merguez, +6 for the chicken

Plus: the location and the neighborhood.

Minimum: salad side of the dish.

Gitane Cafe242 Mott Street, New York

A simple cafe

Couscous and a bowl of soup at Simple Café. © Géraldine Bordère

Our favorite! Samia Behaya’s neighborhood restaurant known as Samy has been working wonders since 2006 for local patrons. This Franco-Algerian decided to offer food in her image: simple, honest, generous, halfway between her two cultures. So, on the menu, the classic tagines, tchoutchouka and other baghrir pancakes rub shoulders with merguez-fries, burgers and kale salad. As far as we are concerned, the couscous is exactly what we dreamed of. Comfortable. Generous Fine air-smoky semolina, covered with perfectly arranged seasonal vegetables, a good piece of lamb on the bone and merguez “we do at home” asked the lady. And above all, this hot, smooth and rich broth is made with very ripe tomatoes (or even more ripe, that’s the secret) and in which the meat is rubbed. Please note, this special meal is only available from Thursday to Sunday evening. 3 versions: the Royal ($34), the vegetarian ($24), the lamb ($29), the chicken ($27).

Note: 9/10

The plus: generosity, culinary mastery of each ingredient

At least: we are still looking

A simple cafe346 Bedford Ave, 11249, Brooklyn

George

A small counter at the back of Essex Market that doesn’t look like much but smells of spice. The aroma is unique. When we get closer, we see the broth gurgling and above all we smell it! It is not as popular as the other addresses because you have to take it away (or give it away) and enjoy it at home. Too bad, the broth was not put in a separate container and was greedily grabbed by the fine semolina. But we still had fun.

Note: 7/10

Price: $14.50 for couscous without meat

The best: a taste true to what we like

At least: you can’t taste it right away

MediterraneanEssex Market, 88 Essex Street, New York

Tara’s Kitchen

Couscous from Tara Kitchen in Tribeca. © Instagram Tara Kitchen

Haven’t tried but heard only good things about this Moroccan restaurant in Tribeca. So go ahead and give us your opinion! Chef Aneesa Waheed told us that this is her personal interpretation and not traditional couscous. “I serve this dish with meat (chicken, lamb or shrimp) or vegetables. I prepare a mixture of vegetables that I cook in tomato broth and spices, I pour this mixture over semolina and add Tfaya (raisins and candied onions).

Price: 28$ with Seven Vegetable Couscous

Tara’s kitchen, 253 Church Street, New York, Other Locations (see website)

Little Morocco

With couscous of Little Morocco and Queens. © Little Morocco

In the Moroccan neighborhood of Astoria, this small, unassuming shop would make a very respectable couscous according to our sources. Like the previous one, we did not test. Eat in or take away, the couscous is here with chickpeas but don’t worry. Like its price. At $11 for vegetarian couscous, it’s the most expensive in our ranking so if you’re in the area, don’t hesitate!

Little Morocco24-39 Steinway Street, Astoria, NY 11103