Sowing
Autumn planting is still going on. According to the latest data of the Ministry of Agriculture from October 24, 2024, the areas sown with wheat are 466,722 hectares. There is a lag in all fall crops except triticale and canola. The reason for the slow pace of sowing is the prolonged drought, which has made the campaign more difficult and expensive.
At the beginning of November rooted lavender cuttings can still be planted.
Vegetables
Vegetable gardens are cleared of the dried stems and roots of field tomatoes, cucumbers, pepper, eggplant and others, as they are a real breeding ground for diseases. Then the land is plowed to a depth of 25-30 cm. In parallel with plowing, fertilization with manure, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers is carried out. Manure must be completely decomposed if the farmer plans to grow root vegetables on the field.
Cabbage should be cut in the first 2-3 weeks of the month to prevent autumn frosts and possible snow. If the deadline is missed and the cabbages are frozen, they should not be harvested when they are frozen, but should be waited for them to thaw as the day progresses and then cut from the cob. After the cabbage is stored, the soil must be cleared of the roots.
Beets, carrots, turnips should also be taken out.
Lettuce grown as a pre-winter crop can be sown around mid to late November. The seeds are placed shallowly in rows 20-25 cm apart, preferably sparsely. Densely sprouted plants are thinned out in the spring. At the onset of permanent frosts, the beds should be covered with polyethylene.
Parsley is sown at the end of November and also in December, weather permitting. The pre-winter sowing of parsley enables the seeds to germinate quickly even with the slight warming of the weather at the end of winter and the beginning of spring, as a result of which the foliage becomes usable earlier.
Fruity
The old and cracked bark of the trees in the orchard is scraped off with a wire brush, and the stems of the young trees are wrapped in paper or smeared with repellents that repel rabbits and other rodents.
In this month, the planting of fruit trees continues, and the prevailing opinion of fruit growers is that autumn planting is preferable to spring planting. It ends about 15 days before the winter cold starts.
Autumn plowing is carried out in the orchards, which bury the fallen leaves and thus ignore the infection of diseases on them. Fertilizers – organic and mineral – are also plowed.
When carrying out the autumn plowing, it should not be allowed to break the soil into lumps, because the uneven surface implies the discovery of the thick roots of the fruit trees and their exposure to the winter cold and frost. Therefore, the plowing should be done in the first days of November and treatments should be done to level the surface.
Berry bushes (raspberries, blackberries, currants, etc.) can be planted throughout November, but the earlier the better. Their roots are relatively shallow, where the temperature conditions are not as favorable as in the deeper layers, and until the onset of severe frosts, they should at least grow a little.
Strawberries, especially newly planted ones, are at risk of damage due to low winter temperatures. This trouble can be avoided if you cover them with straw or straw-rich manure before the onset of permanent cold. Before this, it is useful to hug the plants and tamp the soil lightly to avoid pulling the roots to the surface.
Read more: Sweet strawberries in the field in the November rain
Vineyards
In autumn and winter, the buds on the vine plant are in a state of rest. With the drop of the average daily temperature below 10°C, the fall of the leaves ends and the ripening of the shoots ends. In severe frosts and frosts, ripening may not be completed, which necessitates taking measures against early frosts – burning smoke stacks, straw, etc.
Heavy rainfall can also contribute to poor ripening of the shoots, which is why it is necessary to drain areas in a timely manner where water is retained.
During the month, autumn deep plowing or deep digging of the vines is carried out, simultaneously bringing in and plowing the manure, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Old vines are fertilized every 3-5 years. Fertilizer is introduced into the soil by digging trenches in a row at a depth of 30 and more centimeters. The following year, this is done in the other intermediate rows.
Garden asma is also fertilized periodically as crops exhaust the plant. Asthma fertilizers must be applied deep into the soil. You will best achieve this if a trench 50-60 cm deep and possibly wider is dug 50-60 cm away from the asms and the fertilizer is laid there.
In areas with a cooler climate, by the middle of the month, moulting should be completed. In order not to freeze the asma, it is necessary to accumulate earth around their stems at the base, and to wrap the younger ones with straw or other insulating materials.
The planting of the new vines and the replenishment of the old ones by drainage or with rooted vines continues.
Over the years, individual vines in the vineyard die. Attempts to fill the vacated places by planting young vines have not been successful, as the old vines suppress the young ones. Therefore, the empty places in the vineyard are filled in another way – with taps from the old vines. A stick is chosen from the nearest vine that is long enough to reach the site of the deceased. A ditch, about 40 cm deep, is dug up to this point, and rotted manure is spread on its bottom. The selected rod is cleaned of ringlets, whiskers and all pimples along the length and up to the empty place. Thus prepared, it is placed in the ditch and buried, and at the place of the dead vine it is twisted to come to the surface. After the curve, it is cut so that a cap with two buds (eyes) is obtained. The plug obtained during the curve is tied to a stake and covered with 20-30 cm of loose soil. You will form the new vine from it in the spring. Don’t cut it. The new vine must remain connected to the mother plant.
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