Victoria Beckham, Duran Lantink, Comme des Garçons: fashion, from daydream to reality

If you’re one of those cool people – or pretend to be – you’ve probably been to the show HandlesFriday afternoon. In a darkened room under the Montparnasse station, people pile into the front row after each in turn standing in front of a huge pile of used clothes that served as a devastating backdrop for the designers. Inside, Georgina Rodriguez, Cristiano Ronaldo’s wife, singer Camila Cabello (with a hood, why not), American pop star Normani, Italian rapper Fedez, ex-Chiara Ferragni, and our national Nabilla as a working girl with glasses, a crowd on two rows of benches facing each other, surrounded by surveillance cameras. Smile, you’re filming me. Rapper Travis Scott is not laughing.

Descending from an escalator at the end of the podium, he opens the show, going down and with long steps. Gigi Hadid follows suit, wrapped in thick Scotch in the style of DHL parcels and matching stiletto heels. Then it’s the turn of Carmen Kass, the first muse of Dior J’Adore perfume in the early 2000s, very serious in a white bra and granny petticoat. Everyone walks around with the lock or store tag on their clothes. Is Guram Gvasalia (Demna’s brother) a shoplifter? The fact remains that we have already seen somewhere (at Balenciaga where his younger brother works) stretching microdresses, very shouldered sweatshirts, oversized coats, and long dresses in sun pleats flowers Even Marcia Cross, Bree Van de Kamp from Desperate Housewives looks like Isabelle Huppert, under contract at Balenciaga. But less successful…

Collection of animals in spring-summer 2025.
Gio Staiano

A few hours later, here we are at the other end of Paris, for the show Victoria Beckhamat the Château de Bagatelle. The shows follow each other and are not identical. Under a transparent barn lit by candles in the style of a princely wedding, guests take their seats with a paloma cocktail in hand. The brand’s new perfume and a VB blanket were placed on the benches for each of them. The man, David, and the children Harper, Cruz, Romeo and Brooklyn sat down, we can begin. A girl comes forward in pants with a flowery muslin veil caught in transparent fishnet. Then strapless dresses of the same type, a trench cut in a kind of “crumpled paper”, fitting a slit on the leg or with one arm (too bad!), dresses in colored shades turning by living There are many (too many?) “creative moves” in this collection but the former Spice Girl reassures us behind the scenes: ” Everything will be realized. I try on most looks myself. This fashion show, which is also an opportunity to launch our 21:50 Rêverie perfume, revolves around skin and clothing. I always try to push the limits of my creativity, to seek this balance between masculine and feminine, but above all to establish the codes of my label season after season. »

Victoria Beckham’s spring-summer 2025 collection
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Duran Lanarkhe made himself known thanks to a strong creative movement: foam protuberances that he slips into strategic places to give life to his amazing and endless wardrobe. His talent has already been recognized and won him the Karl Lagerfeld award at the LVMH Prize 2024. So this summer 2025 show is a real moment for the Dutchman. And it does not disappoint, far from it. If he continues his work on this silhouette that made him famous, he will expand a collection of clothes calibrated for reality, like this first look, a sleeveless jacket with a belt and men’s pants on the perfectly cut, decorated with a mesh collar and a large silver necklace – the Sublime jewelry all comes from the personal collection of Carla Sozzani, owner of the Milanese gallery that Azzedine Alaïa put back on track in the 1990s Can’t for us to make Duran a better godmother! Very desirable and seen nowhere else, the white t-shirt gathered at the neck and trimmed with lace, the high-waisted pants with low crotches, the pilot’s legs slipping under the transparent muslin dresses with defined cuts. And, above all, this gala bomber dress with a tulip skirt. We want it!

Since he was appointed as the head of it Nina RicciHarris Reed strives to make women’s dresses from pop label L’Air du Temps. Pantsuit with long legs, hats and big bows, optical prints to influence the designers’ eyes on the red carpets. Photos that then circulate on social networks to sell bottles of perfume, more than clothes. No doubt this will still be the case next summer. Even though these little black dresses with a bow neck, a polka dot bustier (always a bow), a white silk veil on the back and a knotted silk ensemble become more than usual.

Spring-summer 2025 collection by Nina Ricci.
paolo caponetto paolocapo.net

Onward I feel love by Donna Summer (covered by English singer Sam Smith, and it wakes you up) Junya Watanabe experiments with technical materials: on the front of a long dress, we think we can distinguish backpack straps, a puffed skirt seems to be made from sections of insulated lining from a cooler, leather jackets are on the deconstructed and then rebuilt to ‘explode the books’… Of special mastery, but perhaps a little too futuristic to build a feeling.

Sometimes, coming out of a parade Like Boyswe would like to be able to question Rei Kawakubo, to better understand what she has in mind. But the mystery that surrounds it is part of the legend, and not understanding everything, of the charm of this kind of Rorschach fashion test, a series of conceptual and sculptural silhouettes that are not like anything else. This season, therefore, opens with three hard looks bringing out old columns, made, it seems, in a type of fiberglass or resin. Then triangles, tulle clouds, a kind of dresses in Japanese style fabric that look ten times too big… As the models pass by, the guests smile, marveling at them, or looking thoughtfully at these collections of virtuoso material. Recommendation given.

Comme des Garçons Spring-Summer Collection
YANNIS VLAMOS / YANNIS VLAMOS

A disused parking lot, a low ceiling, darkness, a distorted six-minute guitar solo as an intro and the smell of head lilies: at Ann Demeulemeester’severything seemed to herald a very dark gathering. Stefano Gallici, 28, has been trying for a little over a year to put his stamp on this struggling brand since the founder left in 2013. Of course, all his code is still there: black and white, THEtailoring detailed, the belts, the long shirts opening over a tank top… but this season the young Italian puts small officers’ jackets in faded denim t-shirts (beautiful), loose, fake (not essential), but also color , like this very summery, but almost absurd purple paste in “Demeule”. A new energy, let’s say, which, without removing the tradition, still lacks the iconic poetry of the house.

Spring Summer 2025 Collection by Ann Demeulemeester
Valerio Mezzanotti / Valerio Mezzanotti