There is a scientific reason that explains why summer fragrances are often a triumph of citrus and floral notes. These ingredients, beyond their freshness, have the power to evoke light and are associated, on a subliminal level, with the sun and sensations of well-being. They interact with our positive memories.
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“Olfactory memory is contextual”, explains Celine Manetta, psychologist and expert in applied consumer sciences who works for the perfume composition house IFF, “if some perfumes accompany moments of happiness, they will be instinctively associated with positive emotions that will be renewed every time we smell them. The same process is achieved with these fragrances: they activate the limbic system of the brain, where emotions reside, arousing, as neuroscientific tests demonstrate, pleasant sensations, because they evoke the image of the carefree summer months and holidays. “.
This is what happens with citrus fruits, winter fruits whose acidulous and juicy colors and aromas are delicious in the warm months. “The research we conducted with the help of artificial intelligence”, continues Manetta, “also showed us that the floral components, in particular some white types, present in summer fragrances, convey an equally strong feeling of satisfaction”.
The marine notes also give an effect of pure pleasure, recalling the waves when they lap the legs, providing a refreshing shiver. Jordi Fernandez, perfumer of the composition house Givaudan, has included this salty accord in the recently released Michael Kors pour Homme perfume. “I wanted to reproduce, through synthetic perfumed molecules, the sensations of those moments on the beach that involve all the senses”, he says.
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The Sea Wave smell (this is the technical name) has been reproduced thanks to a cutting-edge technology, Scent Trek™, which captures the scents of particular natural environments to reproduce them in the laboratory. This is a solution aimed at preserving environmental resources. “Wrapping ourselves olfactorily in a natural habitat provides serenity and a pinch of euphoria. Knowing that we have also protected biodiversity adds a dose of satisfaction and joy. This masculine fragrance therefore gives energy, but also creates a sort of dependence, you want remain around us”, adds the parfumeur. The top note is that of bergamot. “For me it is the olfactory echo of the sun”, underlines Jordi. In the female version – Michael Kors pour Femme – to give a boost of brightness, mandarin, the ingredient of light, was used in association with sensual jasmine sambac, lily of the valley and patchouli “which represents strength”.
“The two fragrances reflect the fashion of Michael Kors, the elegant bottles (a square glass bottle adorned with a metal chain, ed.) are in harmony. It is always difficult to decide when a fragrance is finished, we perfumers could continue working on it for years But in this case at a certain point I felt that I had reached my goal.” If one had to choose key words to describe the two perfumes they would be “freshness, addiction, sensuality”, says Jordi Fernandez. “We wanted a Wow effect for the summer and create a cloud of positive feelings. But they can be worn all year round.”
The creator played with contrasts between ingredients to achieve the desired effect. “I didn’t turn to AI to tell me which paths to take, but all essence companies, including mine, provide perfumers with tools that help them create combinations that have an impact on mood and vitality.”
It happened with Toys 2 Pearl by Moschino, which claims the ability to stimulate well-being and energy. To create this fragrance, Domitille Michalon-Bertier, senior perfumer at IFF, studied dosages starting from the suggestions of the algorithms. A composition technique that however does not block creativity. “The first ingredient that came to mind for this joyful perfume was the slightly acidic Italian lemon, a stimulator of good energy. Cinnamon and vetiver also communicate these dynamizing and lively sensations. And finally jasmine which for me evokes a smile.”
The sensation of strong emotions can also be aroused by other ingredients. The niche brand Fragrance du Bois has chosen cherry, combined with pepper, for the top notes of its latest creation, Sirène. A fruit that immediately immerses us in the pleasures of summer. Making us feel like children again.
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– 2024-05-13 05:29:07
