When we think of a watchmaker partner of the French National Navy, we most often think of Breguet, whose founder was appointed Watchmaker of the Marine Nationale by King Louis XVIII, or of Tudor, notably with his Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale. But a French brand can pride itself on supporting the French Navy for over 150 years : Auricoste. A prestigious and demanding collaboration, which is at the heart of the brand’s DNA. So here is thehistory of Auricostusthe watchmaker of the French Navy.
Painting of a 3 mast of the National Navy in the 19th century
Émile Thomas, the first founder
The story begins in 1854has Paris. Emile Thomas then founded the Thomas watchmaker, in the 8th arrondissement. He enjoyed an excellent reputation, and he was joined in 1864 by Antoine Redier, another talented watchmaker, known for being the inventor of the alarm clock. The two men produce high quality pieces, which attract many watch enthusiasts. And among these customers, there are Georges-Ernest Fleuriais, officer of the French Navy, and member of the Bureau of Longitudes at the Paris Observatory. The latter, enthusiastic about Thomas watches, convinces the two men to present their products to the Navy services and the Observatory Office. Thomas watches met the requirements of the Navy, and this was the beginning of a collaboration that would last more than 150 years. A few years later, Émile Thomas could even boast the honorary title of “Watchmaker of the Navy and the Observatory”.
Work on the Champ-de-Mars for the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900
1889-1900, Joseph Auricoste takes up the torch
Joseph Auricoste was born in Mende in 1880. He is the son of a French politician, and studied at the School of Watchmaking and Precision Mechanics in Paris. The official history of the brand indicates that Joseph Auricoste took over the boutique from Émile Thomas in 1889… but he was 9 years old at the time, and we can reasonably assume that the archives of the time are somewhat lacking in precision. However, the year 1900 marks a turning point for both men. Émile Thomas wins the gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition for a wristwatch, while Joseph Auricoste finished top of his class at the Watchmaking School, which counts among its members of the Board of Directors a certain Émile Thomas. The latter then sees in Auricoste his worthy successor. The same year, Auricoste took over the Thomas watchmaking business, which he renamed Auricoste. There Auricoste brand was born, and Émile Thomas retires from business. He was made a Knight of the Legion of Honor in 1909.
Commissioning of the aircraft carrier Arromanches in 1946
1900-1950, Auricoste develops in all directions
Joseph Auricoste is a very gifted watchmaker, but he is also an excellent businessman. Thus, it provides clocks to theElysiumau Senateand at the Bank of France (certainly thanks to his father’s reputation), but also to armiesas World War I approached, with approximately 30,000 chronographs ordered. Between the two wars, Joseph Auricoste developed and diversifies its activity, ranging from jewelry watches for wealthy ladies to sports chronographs for athletics tracks, including measuring instruments such as barometers. But Auricoste stands out above all as supplier of clocks for French Navy buildings, notably equipping the heavy cruiser Tourville (1925) and the battleship Richelieu (1935). At the end of the Second World War, Joseph Auricoste was elected to the Council of the Société Chronométrie de France. Thus, he participates, with the help of his son Pierre, in the reconstruction of the National Navy and its aerial branch, Naval Aviation. He then retired, crowned with the medal of Knight of Maritime Merit, and passed the torch to his son Pierre, who perpetuated the maritime tradition of Auricoste. In the following years, the brand equipped the aircraft carriers Arromanches (1946) and the Lafayette (1951).
The Auricoste Type 20 model from 1954 (left) and the civilian version from the 1960s (right)
1954, the year of the Type 20
1954 is a pivotal year for Auricoste. That year, the French Ministry of Defense passed a call for tender for a very specific watch, the famous Type 20. Auricoste watches are selected by the army, alongside Breguet, Vixa and Dodane. So, 2000 Auricoste Type 20 chronographs are deliveredmost of which equip the pilots of theNaval aviation. This order marks an important step for Auricoste, because it further anchors its status as a Naval Watchmaker, while proving that the brand is capable of mastering a complication as delicate as the return-in-flight. And the immense career of the Type 20, which spans more than 30 years, is the best advertisement for it.
The helicopter carrier Jeanne d’Arc (R97) in New York Harbor in 1986
1950-1980: a very (too much ?) narrow
During the following decades, the Auricoste watch systems equip many French Navy buildings. In chronological order, we can cite the aircraft carriers Foch (1961) and Clémenceau (1963), the helicopter carrier Jeanne d’Arc (1964), the anti-submarine frigate Tourville (1975), avisos (small ships light and fast wars), or even SNA Nuclear Attack Submarines like the Rubis or the Perle. For 30 years, the collaboration between Auricoste and the French Navy has been very close, to the point thatAuricoste is focusing more and more on this single customer, even if it means abandoning the civilian market.. A gratifying choice in terms of prestige, but questionable from a marketing point of view, because sales figures collapsed at the same time as military orders. And at the beginning of the 1980s, the company was at its worst. Pierre Auricoste then had to close the business, and all the equipment was sold at auction.
Fabrice Guéroux (left), watch expert, and Claude Tordjmann (right)
1980-2010, a new era, under Claude Tordjmann
In 1980, the Auricoste brand was bought by Claude Tordjmann, a businessman already an importer of Hanhart chronographs for France. He associates himself with Pierre Auricoste to relaunch the brand, starting from scratch. Together, they reconnected with the French Navy, and orders were sent again. But Pierre Auricoste died shortly after, and Tordjmann was now alone in charge of Auricoste. There brand rebuilding is slow and tedious. After short and unsuccessful collaborations with TAG Heuer and Zodiac, Auricoste resumed watch production in its own name. The French brand even equips the aircraft carrier Charles de Gaulle (2001). But here again, the military market quickly proved insufficient, and the brand was in great difficulty.
The Auricoste Spirotechnique 300M model, reference A9102
2010: the brand finally re-opens to the general public
Understanding that the salvation of the brand requires a democratization of its customers, Claude Tordjmann decides to produce models for the general public. In 2010with the help of his son, he released modern versions of the chronograph Type 20 and the diver Spyrotechnicsand unveils a new model called Type 52. Success is finally there and these new models allow the brand to regain color.
The Auricoste Type 52 FlyBack 42mm model, reference A52NP
Auricoste today
Today, the Auricoste catalog is structured around chronographs (Type 20, Type 26 and Type 52) and divers (SM300 Scuba Master and Spyrotechnics). The brand’s DNA is still there, with a omnipresence of the French Navy and Naval Aviation. Moreover, the brand is still officially “ Watchmaker of the French Navy“. We can also notice a “Demining” model, created in collaboration with the French Civil Security Minesweepers. It is difficult to predict the future of the brand, but Auricoste has valuable assets to promote, inherited from years of collaboration with the French Navy: a undeniable heritage and legitimacyof the iconic designsand an very detailed understanding of the needs of professionals. With such arguments, we can bet that Auricoste will be able to convince many watch enthusiasts, both on land and at sea.
Discover all the Auricoste models at Ocarat.
2023-12-12 23:16:46
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