Their names are Alexis Loskoutoff, Maëlle Allibe, Antoine Avril and Yann Bezain. They all graduated from a Master’s degree in training and optimization of sports performance at the University of Grenoble Alpes (UGA). And they have just launched an ambitious project to help climbers improve: PC Training.
Part of the group met at the end of 2020 on the cliffs of Céüse, near Gap, where enthusiasts became friends during the second confinement. Back in Grenoble, Alexis and Maëlle, then in their first year of Masters, began working on a project to make training methods usually reserved for high-level athletes accessible to experienced climbers. “These methods are drawn from scientific data. We are not going to invent anything, we are going to use what we know from our STAPS courses, our experience and our research,” explains Alexis.
“We work with videos then we explain the internal sensations they must have. »
To structure their project, they were supported by Pépite oZer, an incubator supported by the UGA, within which they developed a whole range of services, including two online training packages and two others in person, in the room climbing Espace vertical 4, in Saint-Martin-d’Hères. In June 2021, their business was launched under the name Performance climbing training (PC Training). A year later, Antoine joined them and last month, it was Yann Bezain’s turn.
Their training offer includes a personalized program of physical and mental preparation and the technical aspects of climbing. “We work with videos where everything is explained and people work independently,” explains Antoine. But behind it, we explain the internal sensations they must have and the intentions they must put into the gestures, how much they will have to force. »
Obviously, this offer corresponds to demand because, among their customers, we include the climbers of the French ice climbing team, Dry Tooling.
For Alexis, it is very important to “share training methods”. “We communicate a lot on Instagram and we try to create content that will be useful to climbers,” he continues. The goal is also to take climbing as a whole upwards, by helping practitioners and training progress. »
More information including lots of advice on the website www.pctraining.fr and on the pctraining Instagram account.
Use scientific knowledge
Through their university studies, the entire team is very aware of the scientific aspects of the profession. “In any case, that’s what we want to convey,” admits Alexis. And even use these concepts to improve climbing training: better rationalize, better quantify training and be more rigorous. We also use technological tools that allow us to do this, which are not yet widely used in climbing, such as force sensors to quantify the increase in strength or muscle oximetry, to see the oxygen in the body. muscle. All this helps us to push the individualization of training a little further on the physiological aspects. »
The team also wants to develop field research, by setting up training protocols and testing protocols. “This will not be published in a scientific journal but we can share it on social networks or on a blog and talk about what we found,” he adds.
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