“The human species is fantastic. I like to observe him at the zoo, the circus, and even at La Colombe d’or. » Tender and mocking, the two sentences signed Ben are displayed at the bottom of the painting that he gave to the inn in Saint-Paul-de-Vence (Alpes-Maritimes), and which adorns the wall of the restaurant.
Living in Nice, the French visual artist of Swiss origin is a regular here, and a great fan of kidneys, one of the house’s specialties. To welcome him, the owner, Danièle Roux, elegant and pleasant in her sixties, descends the few steps leading from her reception to the establishment’s discreet street entrance, protected by a simple cord. Opposite it stand the ramparts of the medieval village perched in the Nice hinterland.
Once around the immense marble thumb offered by the sculptor César, the visitor can reach the bar where Pablo Picasso, Winston Churchill and Brad Pitt leaned before him.
A work to settle the bill
The La Colombe d’or inn is one of the treasures of the Côte d’Azur. Opened in 1931 by local native Paul Roux (1892-1953), it initially consisted of only three rooms. A painter in his spare time, a lover of artists, the boss frequents those in the area and, on occasion, accepts that they pay their bill by offering him a work.
The Second World War saw Parisian stars flee occupied France to join the free zone. Jacques Prévert and Arletty sleep there while the film “Les Visiteurs du soir”, by Marcel Carné, is being filmed in the region.
Over the years, La Colombe d’or has become a refuge for painters (Henri Matisse, Fernand Léger, etc.), actors (Orson Welles, Sophia Loren, Lino Ventura, etc.) and singers (Juliette Gréco, Stephan Eicher, etc.). Everyone appreciates the beauty and tranquility of the place, as well as the kindness of the Roux clan.
These are the qualities that seduced the young Danièle, more than forty-five years ago. Traveling the hinterland, this daughter of a diplomat falls in love with both La Colombe and François Roux, grandson of the founder.
She shows us around her kingdom between bursts of laughter, and praises her 25 rooms and apartments. While her clients relax by the swimming pool, in the shade of the giant cypresses and under a mobile by the American artist Calder, Danièle shows the lighting system of the terrace, “which has not moved since Paul set it up.”
Not very keen on communication, François, her husband, lets her respond to the press. Like every evening, he will ensure the closing, respecting to the letter the golden rule of the house: “There must always be a Roux in the walls. » The place only closes from the beginning of November until the Christmas holidays.
“There are three times more requests than places”
Passing by the reception, our hostess grabs the phone: “A room? No sorry. Dinner ? Sorry, it’s the same. » Like every year, from March to October, the inn is full.
Taking over, Guillaume, receptionist for seven years, assures: “There are three times more requests than places. » Finding a room is all the more complex as regulars come back from one year to the next and ask for the same one.
Many learned to swim in the pool where their children splash around forty years later. This is the case of the son of France Gall and Michel Berger, present with the family a few days earlier.
The apartments, around thirty square meters, all tell a story: Jean-Loup Dabadie wrote songs for Julien Clerc in suite number 33; François Truffaut took refuge in the 34 at the end of his life; Simone Signoret wrote her Memoirs in the 36… Faithful people attracted by this immutable and authentic setting.
Splendid, the stone house hangs its two floors on the side of the hill, multiplying patios, idyllic terraces, hidden corners and ivy-covered walls. Like a small jungle, the garden, planted with pine trees and rose bushes, exudes a sweet and unreal freshness.
The hotel-restaurant, whose furnishings have changed little over the years, is surrounded by a lush garden which contributes to its charm. Albane Noor
The menu features seasonal cuisine (rack of lamb, sea bass, melon and Parma, etc.) and its legendary hors d’oeuvres platter at 40 euros. In summer, a night in a double room costs 420 euros and an apartment costs 560 euros.
Among the fifty employees, many have been there for years. The oldest has been serving for thirty-six years. Coming from the Netherlands, Fred, head waiter, asks us: “Why leave when you work in the most beautiful place in the world? »
Beyoncé and Jay-Z performed at Uno
Last May, while the Cannes Film Festival was in full swing about thirty kilometers away, Robert De Niro had lunch there, while Sting and Édouard Baer spent three days there.
After eating on the terrace, Beyoncé and Jay-Z even played a game of Uno there at the end of June, in the shade of a parasol. On the other hand, having called too late, Bernard-Henri Lévy was refused.
A few years ago, a famous singer experienced the same misfortune. At the end of the phone, her assistant nevertheless insisted to Danièle: “Is it complete? Even for Madonna? » Not holding a grudge, the star came to lunch shortly after, leaving her bodyguards in the kitchen. “Here, we don’t make any fuss,” smiles Fred. We don’t change our habits in front of famous people. »
“We are far from Cannes and the Coast,” adds Danièle, the owner. Gulf emirs seek a different kind of standing. I refuse to change towels ten times a day! We are atypical, and customers love this family spirit. »
A Picasso in the dining room
When the weather cools, guests are invited to swap the terrace for the large room of the restaurant, with white walls coated with lime and a ceiling decorated with beams. A decor worthy of a museum.
Overlooking the red jugs and plates, around twenty paintings and drawings by Georges Braque, Maurice Utrillo and Henri Matisse gaze at the diners. The Rouxes received them as gifts, or acquired them directly from the artists.
Between two windows overlooking the terrace sits a magnificent Picasso painting. The Spanish genius, installed nearby, in Vallauris, offered it to Paul Roux shortly before the latter’s death.
The millions of euros on display arouse envy. On March 30, 1960, in the middle of the night, daring burglars took the Picasso and 19 other treasures.
Paintings by masters, frescoes, sculptures… The place contains works from various periods. Albane Noor
Eleven months later, a letter reached the police. Inside, a bulletin allowing you to collect a package from the left luggage office at Saint-Charles station in Marseille. It contains the stolen paintings.
If the affair remains a mystery, Danièle Roux assures that this miracle owes a lot to the network and the investigation carried out by Francis, son of Paul, in the Riviera environment. The collection is now protected by a sophisticated alarm system.
Very celebrity weddings
The Golden Dove is also legendary for the unions that were celebrated there. On December 21, 1951, Simone Signoret and Yves Montand raised their glasses by the swimming pool in the presence of Marcel Pagnol. Jacques Prévert is the bride’s best man and Paul Roux, Montand’s. During the meal, two doves are released above the table.
In December 1951, Simone Signoret and Yves Montand (at the end of the table, next to Jacques Prévert) celebrated their wedding at La Colombe d’or, where they had met a year and a half earlier. Gamma Rapho/Michel Mako
In 1993, it was the turn of Bernard-Henri Lévy and Arielle Dombasle, who ended up buying a villa in Saint-Paul-de-Vence after having rented a room year-round for a long time.
A few weeks earlier, Bill Wyman, ex-bassist of the Rolling Stones, married Suzanne Accosta there. Like Montand, Björn Borg and Elton John before him, Wyman is an aficionado of the pétanque competitions played at Place de Gaulle, on the other side of the Route de Vence.
The Dove’s last treasure rests in her safe. These are three guest books signed by the cream of the artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Jean Gabin philosophizes on the “chances of life and the night”, Charlie Chaplin signs a mischievously drawn portrait, César praises “a place full of promise”. Like relics, these objects are an integral part of the fabulous heritage of the Roux clan.
Timeless elegance
Over the years, local word of mouth has sometimes echoed the purchase of the place by large hotel groups. ” Rumors ! » sweeps away Danièle, who assures that the succession is planned: “We have an idea, but among the Rouxes, changes are slow. » The couple has three descendants: their two children, and a niece.
Whatever the identity of the person who will succeed Danièle and François, the representative of the fourth generation has no interest in modifying the DNA of La Colombe d’or: an elegance and simplicity which makes the you quickly feel at home there.
A credo summarized by Jacques Prévert, whose homage to Paul Roux – handwritten, crossed out and placed under glass – welcomes the visitor at the reception: “He constantly pursued his dream, to make his inn a castle to receive the painting there as a great lord. »
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