A chic and minimalist dressing room. This is what designers and big houses proposed for the spring-summer 2024 season as part of New York Fashion Week. An inspiration reminiscent of the craze observed in spring for ‘quiet luxury’, this anything but ostentatious aesthetic popularized by the successful series “Succession”. A single fantasy: references drawn here and there from decades past.
Are we definitely done with the 2000s? Let’s wait to discover the collections in London, Milan, and Paris to bury the vestiges of this decade, but it seems that the designers are now inspired – or again – by other aesthetics of the past, with a certain interest in the nineties and the sixties – the return of the babydoll – and a less obvious but very real penchant for the seventies. All put at the service of minimalist fashion, without fuss or frills, evoking an aesthetic that makes a big splash since last spring, ‘quiet luxury’, which translates into a discreet wardrobe but more luxurious than ever, reserved, it is said, for heirs and initiates. Enough to make it desirable in the eyes… of as many people as possible.
One piece: the corset
Having disappeared from the radar for years, the corset has made a strong comeback in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic, and no longer seems to be leaving the catwalks. However, there is no question of finding it in its original, particularly restrictive form, but of taking inspiration from it to emphasize the waist with lacing effects, or even breaking certain codes linked to gender by making it masculine. This is exactly what the designers in New York did with corseted pieces, or giving the impression of being corseted, for women as well as for men, layering games, a modern reinterpretation of the ballerina dancer, or even work around lacing and staples. All without ever hindering the silhouette. An inspiration seen on the catwalks of Christian Siriano, Dion Lee, and Palomo Spain.
A material: denim
Unlike previous seasons, leather is far from being unanimous in New York, but denim seems omnipresent without being associated – a rare occurrence for several seasons – with the 2000s. The size is also made ( a little) less low, and the pants no longer take the cargo or baggy shape – but remain loose for some. Alternately raw, light, or faded, denim is revealed through long skirts, as for the fall-winter 2023 season, or pants topped with slit skirts, and is also available in long, fitted jackets, adorned or not with embroidery. But the strong trend, straight from the nineties, remains the total denim look, whatever the pieces chosen. Inspiration spotted at Ralph Lauren, Dion Lee, and Ulla Johnson.
One color: silver
It’s difficult to choose just one shade given the profusion of colors, sometimes sober, sometimes daring, seen on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week. Note in this respect that monochrome will be a sensation next summer, just like color blocking, and, as is customary in spring, soft shades. But the omnipresence of silver, a color more reserved for autumn and winter, is more surprising, reflecting a more festive luxury and elegance – which we also find here and there with silver. gold also, and an omnipresence of sequins. A trend seen at Gabriela Hearst and, to a lesser extent, at Dion Lee and Carolina Herrera.
A print: flowers
Minimalism was the order of the day in New York, but it is clear that designers and big houses also gave pride of place to flowers, whether in the form of prints, like at Carolina Herrera, embroidery or floral patterns. 3D, as at Michael Kors or Christian Siriano, or brooches, jewelry, and other ornaments, as at Aknvas and Colin LoCascio. Along with sequins, this is one of the rare eccentricities brought to these spring-summer 2024 collections, in which there are also few accessories. A true ode, as we have said, to discreet luxury.
2023-09-15 14:15:41
#ode #discreet #luxury #decades
