A model walks for the Coach brand during New York Fashion Week, September 7, 2023 (ANGELA WEISS)
New York opened its Spring-Summer 2024 Fashion Week this Friday with the return to the catwalks of Helmut Lang and heavyweight Ralph Lauren.
But the festivities had already begun, outside the official calendar, on Thursday night with a sensual Coach fashion show, briefly interrupted by the animal rights organization Peta.
Against the backdrop of the Manhattan public library, and under the gaze of fashion guru Anna Wintour, sitting next to Jennifer Lopez, an activist infiltrated among the models, her naked body covered in paint with the inscription ” Coach: leather kills,” followed by another holding a sign with the same words.
On Wednesday night, fashionistas and celebrities (Naomi Campbell, Doja Cat, Naomi Osaka, Gigi Hadid) had already gathered in the main auditorium of the Manhattan Center for the Victoria’s Secret evening, about the film that the lingerie brand will premiere at the end of September on Amazon Prime.
The film, titled “Victoria’s Secret The Tour 23”, which shows the work of designers and artists from Lagos, London, Bogotá and Tokyo, aims to replace the brand’s famous catwalk shows, which have been accused of conveying a caricatured image of women. as an object and they stopped being carried out in 2019.
– Yellow taxi –
The official calendar includes a flurry of young talents and emerging brands, along with established names and a handful of heavyweights (Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch, Luar), the recipe which allows New York to open fashion weeks ahead of London and the most sought-after cities, such as Milan and Paris.
For Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the program highlights “the strength of this city in terms of creative thinking” and demonstrates that New York remains “a cornerstone” of fashion.
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Under the sweltering heat of the New York summer, the six-day marathon kicks off on Friday afternoon in Manhattan’s Lower East Side with Helmut Lang, who marked the 1990s and 2000s with the Austrian artist’s minimalist aesthetic.
Helmut Lang the designer left fashion in 2005, but Helmut Lang the brand continued to exist, bought by Prada and then by the Japanese group Fast Retailing, also owner of Uniqlo. He now returns to the catwalks of the Big Apple with a collection designed by his new artistic director, Peter Do, considered one of the best talents in New York fashion.
The show was advertised nostalgically, using the image of a yellow taxi, a nod to the brand’s founder, who was the first fashion designer to put his name on advertisements in the neon lights of these vehicles in the late ’90s. .
– Fewer red carpets –
Another brand that will make its return on Friday, but in Brooklyn, where many of the shows have been moved, is the giant Ralph Lauren, symbol of preppy style and epitome of American fashion worldwide, with annual sales of more than 6,000 millions of dollars.
The Bronx-born designer’s brand has not shown in New York since 2019.
This season has been marked by the double strike of Hollywood screenwriters and actors for a salary increase, which has reduced the red carpets of the previews to a minimum, so many brands lost the opportunity to dress the stars and present themselves. to know
“Red carpets are undoubtedly a way to reach the public,” said Steven Kolb, but the shows and content disseminated by brands on social networks “will contribute to a Fashion Week that will be seen and heard,” he said.
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2023-09-08 18:03:15
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