«Trussardi remains open with the restaurant and café. But without us.” A divorce that was announced, the one between Giancarlo Perbellini and the Trussardi group, but which now seems official. And above all, incurable. The chef himself, six Michelin stars in all, confessed it to Corriere today, on the sidelines of the pre-opening of the new «Casa Perbellini», which moves from San Zeno to the historic Veronese premises of «12 apostoli». Precisely in the kitchen where the eighteen-year-old cook himself had started working alongside the Gioco family.
The Trussardi closed from August
A long-awaited confirmation, the one given by the starred chef. Also because the fine dining venue – which chefs Andrea Berton, Luigi Taglienti and Roberto Conti had already taken turns in the past – closed for holidays at the beginning of August, but has never reopened. And many wondered about his fate. The reasons for the separation from the Milanese maison are still to be clarified, but everything seems to point towards the moment of crisis that the high fashion group is going through. Perbellini had arrived at the Trussardi house in the autumn of 2022, when the company had decided to return to investing in signature restaurants, joining one of the best-known faces of Italian haute cuisine. Thus was born the «Trussardi by Giancarlo Perbellini», one of the most announced and awaited openings of the season.
A troubled story
The partnership seemed to be born on solid foundations and to have rosy prospects. Instead, last March, the twist: just four months after the inauguration, the unexpected dissolution of the Trussardi board of directors arrives. The cause? An accumulated debt of 50 million euros. A few weeks later, Giancarlo Perbellini resigned from the board of directors of Pontaccio, a company of the Trussardi group that deals with catering. At that point, rumors and indiscretions started chasing each other: what would become of the restaurant and café-bistro in Piazza della Scala 5? Perbellini’s statements, at the time, seemed to leave a glimmer of light: «I resigned from the board of directors as a duty – he explained -. Since the managing director of Pontaccio was no longer there, I didn’t have the power of signature to be able to pay the salaries of the employees. There is currently no willingness of mine to leave nor is the restaurant about to close. It’s not easy, but we’ve invested in Milan and I want to stay here». Since then, however, given today’s statements, something must have definitely changed and the Milanese adventure has come to an end.
The new «Casa Perbellini» in the historical center of Verona
But now, the chef’s attention is directed to his new Veronese “creature”. In fact, on 5 September he will open the «Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli» restaurant in vicolo Corticella San Marco to the public. In the rooms renovated by Patricia Urquiola and Silvia Bettini, three food and wine itineraries will be offered, as refined as they are personal: “Me and Silvia”, dedicated to his wife; «Io e Giorgio», a tribute to Giorgio Gioco which contains all the symbolic dishes of Perbellini’s culinary journey; and finally, «Essenza», a vegetarian and gluten-free menu, designed to guarantee a complete sensory experience. All of this, of course, accompanied by the à la carte menu and a large selection of desserts. Two spaces will then be dedicated to wine. The first is the cellar, conceived almost as a small temple, a meeting place between tradition and the contemporary, between fine wines and absolute rarities. The second is the historic cellar of the restaurant: over 300 exclusive labels stored in a vaulted room and enriched by original finds from the Roman and medieval eras.
2023-09-01 18:14:00
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