Despite wars and front lines, Russian tourists continue to vacation in Crimea. Since the beginning of July, traffic jams from the Krasnodar Territory have been regularly lined up at the entrance to the Crimean Bridge. In Rosavtodor, they are explained by the inspection of cars, the number of which has increased due to the start of the holiday season (tickets for trains to Crimea are not currently on sale, flights have been closed since February 2022). Cooperative of independent journalists “Bereg” talked with the Russians who decided to spend their holidays on the peninsula, about why they came to Crimea and what is happening this summer in the resorts. With permission from Meduza, this text is published in full.
Alena
28 years old, Orenburg
We were in Crimea in August 2022, resting in Feodosia – at the time when my husband and I booked rooms, paid and painted a vacation plan, conflict [России и Украины] did not have. When it all started, we closely followed the news and thought about what to do. But they took a chance and decided to go.
The situation was tense. [По полуострову] they transported new and broken equipment for repairs, fighter jets flew in the sky, our Black Sea Fleet was in the port. There were also many refugees who took out their families and moved in cars filled to the brim with things. But at the same time everything was very calm.
In July 2023, my husband and my sister and I again went to Feodosia. There was no fear. The Crimean peninsula is very well guarded: many of our soldiers patrol the streets, we felt safe. We didn’t even think that something could happen to us.
Local residents are happy to see Russian tourists. Some people have told us that they are very happy to have joined Russia. We didn’t really ask though. But I was told several stories about how the Crimeans were “nightmare” at the time of joining the Russian Federation [и после]. I think it’s obvious who did it: either they wanted to drop a “dirty bomb” on them, or they turned off the water and electricity. [Пока Крым был в составе Украины]there were many problems in the cities, nothing was solved. [И тогда и сейчас] people said they grew up in the USSR and would stay with Russia.
Crimeans are strong in spirit. After all, there were so many wars for their peninsula. They say they are tired and just want to live in peace. And also about how, after becoming part of Russia, cities, roads, [появилось] new housing, utilities and other services.
Many people came to rest from the LPR and DPR – everyone was very welcoming, there were no conflicts.
We go to the Crimea because we believe that our resorts are no worse than foreign ones, and we want our money to remain inside the country, go to improve Russian tourism. Crimea is my separate love.
Anna
44 years old, Arkhangelsk region
We rested from 4 to 11 July in Koreiz. My husband is in love with the peninsula, plus over the past four years we had our first joint vacation, so we chose Crimea. It was not scary to go, because we had already been there twice [до 2023 года].
The situation is calm, almost nothing reminds of the war – only a thorough inspection on the bridge. With the locals, they only discussed the traffic jam and the fact that there were fewer people.
The holiday was amazing, we will definitely be back.
Versions of what happened on the Crimean bridge in October 2022
Svetlana
59 years old, Perm
We rested from June 9 to 19 in Evpatoria, where we have been more than once: we like the beaches and have places to go. [Сейчас на полуострове] everything is calm, there are no threats, the people live a normal life.
[Туда] it was not scary to go, but on the way back, when we were passing over the bridge, we heard on the switch [объявление]: “Air raid, air raid.” It tingled a little.
We had a good rest, but there were few Sberbank ATMs, and cash or online transfers were often requested. The Internet was expensive for us – 300 rubles a day! Hard. They offered free Wi-Fi at the place of residence, but we [бывали] in rented accommodation only in the evening. We were lucky with the weather, everything was fine.
Anonymous companion
32 years old, St. Petersburg
We are now (the conversation took place on July 12, – approx. “Shores”) we are resting in Feodosia, we arrived for a week, after a couple of days we were already home. We come here every year to visit relatives. It was, of course, scary to go, but relatives said that it was calm here now. There are vacationers, but not so many. We came from Anapa, where we also rested for about a week, but there are much more tourists there.
There is now a serious inspection on the Crimean bridge. The trip from Anapa to Feodosia usually takes four hours, but now, due to the inspection, it took two hours longer. There were no traffic jams on the bridge itself, only up to the inspection zone.
Every year the city [Феодосия] It is being ennobled: monuments, beautiful streets, places for recreation and walks appear, historical objects are restored, roads are being made. On the embankment in the evening people go for a walk, there are cafes and restaurants around – I can’t say that they are empty.
Now everything is really calm here. Previously, the situation was more tense: relatives said they saw drones over the sea. In the summer of 2022, fighter jets flew, but not in this one.
Anonymous interlocutor
16 years old, Lipetsk region
From July 4 to July 11, I rested with my parents in the urban-type settlement of Kacha, near Sevastopol. We were not afraid to go, as we understood that where we rested, there were no military operations. Of course, anything could happen, but we were sure that everything would be in order. And so it turned out.
Crimea was chosen for several reasons: firstly, they had not been there for a long time, [снова] look at the peninsula. Secondly, many people are afraid to go here – it’s understandable why – that’s why other, safer resort places are now full, and Crimea is half empty. There are really few people!
Military vehicles were regularly encountered on the roads. There was nothing else unusual, the locals did not talk about anything negative.
In general, the rest turned out to be good, unusual. Will be remembered for a long time.
Hope
42 years old, Ivanovo
I have been coming to Crimea for the third year in a row after the bridge was built [в 2018 году]. I was on the peninsula in 2003, and then I was not impressed: I was often deceived, there was dirt everywhere. Then the bridge was opened, and I decided to go. In 2019, my children and I went by car – the first city we came across was the city of Kerch. We decided to spend the night and then think about where to go next. We stayed in houses by the sea. Since then I have been going to this place.
Kerch really hooked me – there are both Greek and Turkish roots, fortresses. This is a place of power and silence. In addition to Kerch, we traveled to Sudak and Novy Svet.
This year I was traveling alone with three children in a car. Me many [знакомые] they asked me if I had gone crazy – to take the children to the Crimea. But I answered them that we were going to Gelendzhik, [чтобы не донимали вопросами].
I understood that it was not calm in Crimea, it was a little scary, but I have an inner instinct – I knew that everything would bypass us. When I was driving to the peninsula, Prigozhin’s rebellion began, which caught me between Voronezh and Pavlovsk, where [бойцы ЧВК Вагнера] shot down helicopter. When the roads were opened, there was an option to return or go further to the Crimea. I felt that there was no need to change my plans. I drove along an empty highway, with open barriers on toll roads, spent 40 minutes on the bridge. The green light was everywhere.
Once I taught life safety and told children about defense and air defense, so I know that we have a very strong defense. I had no doubt that the air defense would stop everything. Although the next day after we left, there was an arrival – and it shocked me a little. I felt that the peninsula itself and the people would not be touched, although they would try to cut them off from the mainland. Therefore, you can relax there, everything is calm inside: I did not hear the sirens, I almost did not see the military. It was a little funny from the anti-tank barriers in the field, because in theory they [украинские войска] can easily drive through [трассе] “Tavrida”.
Among the locals there are many visitors from Russia – from the North, from Siberia. They are under construction [строят дома]are not afraid of anything. I asked if they would like to leave before the fall, until everything is decided, because now is the most turning point, but they said they were staying.
When I first came to Crimea [в первые годы после аннексии республики], the locals were very happy that the peninsula became part of Russia. Now for them it is already a matter of course. They understand that they are Russians and support the activities of our government in all conversations. They have complete confidence that everything will be fine, and there are no questions why they started [полномасштабное вторжение в Украину].
Angelica
39 years old, St. Petersburg
On June 28, I arrived with my husband and two children in Evpatoria, [точнее в] Cozy village [на западной окраине города]. Recently, my husband left, and I was left alone until August 7th. Without any doubts [в том, ехать или нет] no, I wasn’t scared. For me [прилеты] not terrible. I just believe that everyone is doing their job and the military will do it. I just love such situations, because there are fewer people.
I love the peninsula. Every year we go somewhere, it doesn’t always work out to the Crimea, but this is not the first time here. At the moment, this is the most affordable option for us.
Now the situation here is normal, there are not so many people for Crimea, despite the fact that now is the season. No panic is felt, everything is calm, as usual. Just less people.
Anna
51 years old, St. Petersburg
We have been vacationing in Crimea every year since 2017, for two or three months in different cities: Feodosia, Utyos, Yalta, Balaklava, Evpatoria. Every year it gets better and better here, the coast is being improved, more hotels are being built, the service is getting better. When you visit once a year, the improvements are immediately evident.
I like Crimea because [здесь] beautiful varied nature, natural fruits, berries, vegetables and more freedom than in the Krasnodar Territory.
Who said that something could happen here? Ukrainians? The peninsula is a resort, so [сейчас здесь] resort setting.
The Crimeans are very calm and confident that everything is fine, that there is absolutely nothing to be afraid of, that they are forever under the protection of Russia. They live their normal lives.
Anonymous companion
25 years old, Moscow
I came to Crimea for May [праздники] from May 1 to May 11, lived on the southern coast of Crimea. I was a little scared, but I have many acquaintances on the peninsula – I talked with them, consulted before the trip about the situation and realized that now I can go. There were also acquaintances who, like me, came to rest in the Crimea, but earlier, in March-April. They also said everything was ok.
[Я поехала именно в Крым] on personal matters. The locals discuss the same things as people on the mainland (everyone has fears for the future), but no one said anything special about the situation in Crimea. Everything was generally calm, but warships and people in uniform on trains, at stations and in the city, with their presence, reminded of the current military-political situation. It was eye-catching and a little depressing. There were also fewer vacationers than in peacetime.
Lyudmila
Saint Petersburg
We have just returned from Feodosia. My husband is a military man, and we went to a military sanatorium. [В силу его профессии] even got used to various surprises. In addition, before the trip, they tried not to watch the news, so as not to wind themselves up once again.
Usually we write requests to military sanatoriums in November, and they give vouchers to different places. This time they gave to the Crimea. It was not scary to rest, because we were guarded by soldiers with machine guns, they made a constant detour. There were barriers at the checkpoint and [противотанковые] hedgehogs, as shown in films about the war. Together with us in the corps lived the wounded with SVO, who were undergoing rehabilitation. It was certainly a pitiful picture – young and crippled. I have two sons myself, so I looked at them [военных] with tears.
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2023-07-13 21:17:28