Source title: Tang Xianxiang Yunsha Ouyang Fengting: Inheriting ancient skills and presenting modern beauty
A few days ago, in the program “Inheritance in Progress” broadcasted by Beijing Satellite TV, Wang Gang, as an intangible inheritance assistant officer, promoted Xiangyun Sha: “One buttercup and one fragrant cloud, one cloth and one fragrance, wash away the lead, do not apply Fen Dai”; Zhao Yazhi, as the recommender of the intangible cultural heritage project, wore a fragrant cloud gauze dress, which looked extremely noble and elegant. And as the designer and producer of the Xiangyunsha dress, how to present the perfect combination of the ancient technology of Xiangyunsha with modern clothing, so delicate and beautiful? The author came to Shunde, Guangdong, and conducted an exclusive interview with Ouyang Fengting, the inheritor of Xiangyun Sha intangible cultural heritage and the general manager of Guangdong Tangxian Clothing Co., Ltd.
Tang XianBrand: Xiangyunsha has its own brand
When we came to Shunde, Ouyang Fengting couldn’t wait to lead us to visit the company, Xiangyunsha drying yard and cultural center, and told about Xiangyunsha’s past and present: Xiangyunsha, it is the gift of nature to Lingnan people; Xiangyunsha , also known as “Xiangyun yarn”, whose real name is “Runica yarn”, is a silk fabric dyed with plant dye yam. It is the only silk fabric dyed with pure plant dye in the world’s textiles, and is known as “soft gold” by the textile industry. With a century of ups and downs, Shunde, which is known as the “Silk Capital of Southern China”, still completely preserves the dyeing and finishing skills of Xiangyun yarn. In the long river of time, it has been washed away, and it has become more simple and elegant, soaked in the charm of time.
As a major disciple of Liang Zhu, a national intangible cultural heritage inheritor of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing skills, Ouyang Fengting watched the adults around her work in Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing skills since she was a child. , she followed her master to learn the dyeing and finishing skills of Xiangyun yarn, not only inherited her master’s skills in making Xiangyun yarn, but also vigorously spread the charm of Xiangyun yarn, and made continuous efforts for its better development.
Shunde’s sericulture and silk reeling industry has a long history and is known as the “Silk Capital of Southern China”. It is against this background that Xiangyun Sha was born. According to records, during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, Xiangyun yarn was sold overseas. Xiangyun yarn is commonly known as sweet potato yarn and cloud yarn. Because it flicks in the ear, or you can hear the “rustling” sound when you wear it and walk, it is named “Xiangyun yarn”. Fragrant cloud gauze”.
Xiangyun yarn is a pure natural green and environmentally friendly fabric made by dyeing and processing mulberry silk fabrics with the juice of plant yam stems and high-quality river mud. Because of its unique dyeing and finishing techniques, long production cycle, and scarce output, Xiangyun yarn was once considered the most “valuable” silk in Chinese history, and it was even known as “soft gold” in the textile industry.
In Shunde, Xiangyunsha has its own brand – “Tangxian brand”. Tangxian brand Xiangyun yarn is from Shunde, Guangdong, China, and even the world.
Canvas：gift of nature
How did Xiangyun Sha transform from a piece of mulberry silk fabric into an elegant and subtle fabric? If you want to crack the code of xiangyunsha, you must first understand its raw materials.
Ouyang Fengting said that mulberry silk fabrics, yams, river mud, pastures, and sunlight are indispensable natural elements in the dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn, so there is such a saying that “Xiangyun yarn is a gift from nature”. .
The mulberry silk fabric is combined with the gel and tannic acid in the yam to form a coating on the surface of the fabric; the iron oxide in the river mud reacts with the yam to form a black precipitate that condenses on the surface of the fabric; put it on Let it be exposed to the sun on the grass, so as to condense the essence of heaven and earth.
The dyeing and finishing technique of Xiangyun yarn needs to go through “three steams, nine boils, and eighteen suns”. The final folding and storage, each process is indispensable. Ouyang Fengting is very familiar with the craftsmanship of Xiangyun yarn.
So, what are the advantages and characteristics of Tangxian brand “Xiangyun yarn”? Ouyang Fengting said: First of all, the natural silk fabric has a smooth and soft texture. But many people don’t know enough about Xiang Yunsha, but when you really get in touch with it, you will find that it has many advantages. Xiangyun yarn is a kind of silk fabric, but it is slightly different from ordinary silk. It is a relatively healthy pure plant dye. “Soft gold” in the textile industry.
Second, its fabric is lightweight, stain-resistant, hard-wearing and durable. If we want to use a fabric to reflect our sense of nobility, then it must be xiangyunsha. Xiangyunsha is 100% mulberry silk, and there are many xiangyunshas that are mixed with other materials, so the fabric composition Not too pure. The name of Xiangyun Sha is elegant and dreamy. The fabric material is light and dirt-resistant, and it is warm in winter and cool in summer. It is a long-lasting existence, especially suitable for spring and summer.
Furthermore, there are various styles and designs, and the lines are smooth. Most of the clothing styles designed by Xiang Yunsha are relatively simple and neat, just like the improved cheongsam worn by Zhao Yazhi, the lines are very smooth and natural, without redundant tailoring accumulation. The extremely simplified design can make the whole person’s temperament more outstanding, and successfully modify the body line. Although the color is a dark tone, it does not look dull and depressing, but has the subtle beauty unique to oriental women.
Tang XianCardCanvas：quality andbrand“Two-pronged approach”
When it comes to Xiangyun Sha, what aspects should be considered in the clothing design process? Ouyang Fengting said: First, the clothing has a certain waist cut. Although the single product of xiangyunsha should not be too tight, we must also consider the effect of self-cultivation, such as the design of the waist retracted, which can well outline the body curve, but the test of the figure will not be too high. Especially when choosing a Zen-like xiangyunsha skirt, don’t blindly pursue a loose effect, and a proper waist design will show your figure advantage.
Second, the length of the clothing should be over the knee without mopping the floor. Xiangyun yarn fabric is a relatively elegant type, so when used in clothing items, try to choose a longer style, and the effect will be more flexible when worn on the upper body. For example, the cheongsam skirt with a waist that reaches the knees and does not drag the floor is worth trying. With the gradually widening skirt, it can also hide the shortcomings of the lower body.
Third, the use of exquisite elements enhances the temperament. Most of the authentic xiangyunsha colors are relatively restrained and reserved, and they look elegant and warm. The overall color system looks darker, without a very high-profile feeling, full of the atmosphere of retro years. In order to make the shape look more amazing, it is recommended that you can incorporate fashionable elements into the clothing, such as embroidery, pearls, three-dimensional patterns, etc., which can enhance the beauty of the shape.
Finally, Ouyang Fengting told us that as an intangible cultural heritage item, Tang Xian brand Xiangyun yarn has rejuvenated over the years, frequently appeared on the fashion stage, displayed in front of the world with a different look, and became a favorite of fashion designers and consumers. material. Creative design is continuously endowing Xiangyun yarn with new momentum for its inheritance and development. And “Tang Xianxiang Yunsha” has become the main attack point in the next step from the “two-pronged approach” of quality and brand. As a clothing fabric, it really needs to be market-oriented. However, we cannot blindly cater to the market and lose the original ecological quality shaped by traditional techniques. Therefore, it is necessary to push the highest quality and best quality xiangyun yarn to the market as much as possible, to get rid of the original source, and let people know and get in touch with the high-quality xiangyun yarn.
Inheritance work is not the work of a day, nor is it the work of one person. Ouyang Fengting revealed confidently that the Xiangyunsha Theme Academy is currently under preparation, and she wants to break through the current traditional form of accepting apprentices and gather more people who are interested in Xiangyunsha and are willing to devote themselves to the cause of inheritance through training courses The new force in China will showcase the century-old Xiangyunsha costumes and help the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. Let more people reflect the beauty of the East under the dress of Tang Xian brand Xiangyun yarn.
A few days ago, in the program “Inheritance in Progress” broadcasted by Beijing Satellite TV, Wang Gang, as an intangible inheritance assistant officer, promoted Xiangyun Sha: “One buttercup and one fragrant cloud, one cloth and one fragrance, wash away the lead, do not apply Fen Dai”; Zhao Yazhi, as the recommender of the intangible cultural heritage project, wore a fragrant cloud gauze dress, which looked extremely noble and elegant. And as the designer and producer of the Xiangyunsha dress, how to present the perfect combination of the ancient technology of Xiangyunsha with modern clothing, so delicate and beautiful? The author came to Shunde, Guangdong, and conducted an exclusive interview with Ouyang Fengting, the inheritor of Xiangyun Sha intangible cultural heritage and the general manager of Guangdong Tangxian Clothing Co., Ltd.
Tang XianBrand: Xiangyunsha has its own brand
When we came to Shunde, Ouyang Fengting couldn’t wait to lead us to visit the company, Xiangyunsha drying yard and cultural center, and told about Xiangyunsha’s past and present: Xiangyunsha, it is the gift of nature to Lingnan people; Xiangyunsha , also known as “Xiangyun yarn”, whose real name is “Runica yarn”, is a silk fabric dyed with plant dye yam. It is the only silk fabric dyed with pure plant dye in the world’s textiles, and is known as “soft gold” by the textile industry. With a century of ups and downs, Shunde, which is known as the “Silk Capital of Southern China”, still completely preserves the dyeing and finishing skills of Xiangyun yarn. In the long river of time, it has been washed away, and it has become more simple and elegant, soaked in the charm of time.
As a major disciple of Liang Zhu, a national intangible cultural heritage inheritor of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing skills, Ouyang Fengting watched the adults around her work in Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing skills since she was a child. , she followed her master to learn the dyeing and finishing skills of Xiangyun yarn, not only inherited her master’s skills in making Xiangyun yarn, but also vigorously spread the charm of Xiangyun yarn, and made continuous efforts for its better development.
Shunde’s sericulture and silk reeling industry has a long history and is known as the “Silk Capital of Southern China”. It is against this background that Xiangyun Sha was born. According to records, during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, Xiangyun yarn was sold overseas. Xiangyun yarn is commonly known as sweet potato yarn and cloud yarn. Because it flicks in the ear, or you can hear the “rustling” sound when you wear it and walk, it is named “Xiangyun yarn”. Fragrant cloud gauze”.
Xiangyun yarn is a pure natural green and environmentally friendly fabric made by dyeing and processing mulberry silk fabrics with the juice of plant yam stems and high-quality river mud. Because of its unique dyeing and finishing techniques, long production cycle, and scarce output, Xiangyun yarn was once considered the most “valuable” silk in Chinese history, and it was even known as “soft gold” in the textile industry.
In Shunde, Xiangyunsha has its own brand – “Tangxian brand”. Tangxian brand Xiangyun yarn is from Shunde, Guangdong, China, and even the world.
Canvas：gift of nature
How did Xiangyun Sha transform from a piece of mulberry silk fabric into an elegant and subtle fabric? If you want to crack the code of xiangyunsha, you must first understand its raw materials.
Ouyang Fengting said that mulberry silk fabrics, yams, river mud, pastures, and sunlight are indispensable natural elements in the dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn, so there is such a saying that “Xiangyun yarn is a gift from nature”. .
The mulberry silk fabric is combined with the gel and tannic acid in the yam to form a coating on the surface of the fabric; the iron oxide in the river mud reacts with the yam to form a black precipitate that condenses on the surface of the fabric; put it on Let it be exposed to the sun on the grass, so as to condense the essence of heaven and earth.
The dyeing and finishing technique of Xiangyun yarn needs to go through “three steams, nine boils, and eighteen suns”. The final folding and storage, each process is indispensable. Ouyang Fengting is very familiar with the craftsmanship of Xiangyun yarn.
So, what are the advantages and characteristics of Tangxian brand “Xiangyun yarn”? Ouyang Fengting said: First of all, the natural silk fabric has a smooth and soft texture. But many people don’t know enough about Xiang Yunsha, but when you really get in touch with it, you will find that it has many advantages. Xiangyun yarn is a kind of silk fabric, but it is slightly different from ordinary silk. It is a relatively healthy pure plant dye. “Soft gold” in the textile industry.
Second, its fabric is lightweight, stain-resistant, hard-wearing and durable. If we want to use a fabric to reflect our sense of nobility, then it must be xiangyunsha. Xiangyunsha is 100% mulberry silk, and there are many xiangyunshas that are mixed with other materials, so the fabric composition Not too pure. The name of Xiangyun Sha is elegant and dreamy. The fabric material is light and dirt-resistant, and it is warm in winter and cool in summer. It is a long-lasting existence, especially suitable for spring and summer.
Furthermore, there are various styles and designs, and the lines are smooth. Most of the clothing styles designed by Xiang Yunsha are relatively simple and neat, just like the improved cheongsam worn by Zhao Yazhi, the lines are very smooth and natural, without redundant tailoring accumulation. The extremely simplified design can make the whole person’s temperament more outstanding, and successfully modify the body line. Although the color is a dark tone, it does not look dull and depressing, but has the subtle beauty unique to oriental women.
Tang XianCardCanvas：quality andbrand“Two-pronged approach”
When it comes to Xiangyun Sha, what aspects should be considered in the clothing design process? Ouyang Fengting said: First, the clothing has a certain waist cut. Although the single product of xiangyunsha should not be too tight, we must also consider the effect of self-cultivation, such as the design of the waist retracted, which can well outline the body curve, but the test of the figure will not be too high. Especially when choosing a Zen-like xiangyunsha skirt, don’t blindly pursue a loose effect, and a proper waist design will show your figure advantage.
Second, the length of the clothing should be over the knee without mopping the floor. Xiangyun yarn fabric is a relatively elegant type, so when used in clothing items, try to choose a longer style, and the effect will be more flexible when worn on the upper body. For example, the cheongsam skirt with a waist that reaches the knees and does not drag the floor is worth trying. With the gradually widening skirt, it can also hide the shortcomings of the lower body.
Third, the use of exquisite elements enhances the temperament. Most of the authentic xiangyunsha colors are relatively restrained and reserved, and they look elegant and warm. The overall color system looks darker, without a very high-profile feeling, full of the atmosphere of retro years. In order to make the shape look more amazing, it is recommended that you can incorporate fashionable elements into the clothing, such as embroidery, pearls, three-dimensional patterns, etc., which can enhance the beauty of the shape.
In the end, Ouyang Fengting told us that as an intangible cultural heritage item, Tangxian brand Xiangyun yarn has rejuvenated over the years, frequently appeared on the fashion stage, displayed in front of the world with a different look, and became a favorite of fashion designers and consumers. material. Creative design is continuously endowing Xiangyun yarn with new momentum for its inheritance and development. And “Tang Xianxiang Yunsha” has become the main attack point in the next step from the “two-pronged approach” of quality and brand. As a clothing fabric, it really needs to be market-oriented. However, we cannot blindly cater to the market and lose the original ecological quality shaped by traditional techniques. Therefore, it is necessary to push the highest quality and best quality xiangyun yarn to the market as much as possible, to get rid of the original source, and let people know and get in touch with the high-quality xiangyun yarn.
Inheritance work is not the work of a day, nor is it the work of one person. Ouyang Fengting revealed confidently that the Xiangyunsha Theme Academy is currently under preparation, and she wants to break through the current traditional form of accepting apprentices and gather more people who are interested in Xiangyunsha and are willing to devote themselves to the cause of inheritance through training courses The new force in China will showcase the century-old Xiangyunsha costumes and help the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. Let more people reflect the beauty of the East under the dress of Tang Xian brand Xiangyun yarn.
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