Make-up is a huge playground, on which everyone is free to express themselves as they wish! But there is still a certain number of codes to be sure to achieve a flattering beauty treatment, which will make you look good and get you a lot of compliments. These codes are those of colorimetry, a technique which consists in determining which are the most rewarding colors, according to the physical characteristics of each person.
“By taking into account certain details, we can succeed in creating an almost magical effect, assures Michel Coulombe, make-up artist Laura Mercier. We can illuminate a facegive it a fresher, more rested air… all this by drawing attention to the good elements, in order to highlight the assets of each one and make forget the small imperfections that we don’t want to see come out“.
Want to know more about this method? Browse our article and stock up on good tips for a make-up that will look great on you!
⋙ PHOTOS – Colorimetry: 20 inclusive makeup products to match all profiles
The right colors for your complexion
Before getting to the heart of the matter, remember thatsuccessful makeup always starts with a well-established skincare routine. Indeed, the products apply more easily and hold better on skin that has taken the time to moisturize just before. Did you apply your care “all right”? So here we go, make way for foundation! Finding the right color is crucial to creating a canvas that looks as natural as possible.. With an unsuitable shade, the result risks marking features and imperfections: everything you want to avoid.
Sticking to the fact that your skin is rather “light”, “medium” or “dark” is generally not enough. In order not to be mistaken, you must choose a foundation that perfectly matches your skin undertone, knowing that there are three types: cold, warm and neutral.. You have no idea which category you belong to? Do not panic, several techniques allow you to discover it.
Determine your skin tone
jewelry technique
“The jewels that we wear on a daily basis are a good clueassures Michel Coulombe. If you think silver jewelry looks good on you, then you can tell that your undertone is cool. If it’s gold that makes you look good, it’s because your skin undertone is warm. Finally, if all the metals flatter you, chances are your undertones are neutral.“.
Recently, many colorimetric filters have appeared on TikTok to easily determine your skin undertone. Do not hesitate to try them!
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The vein technique
Don’t wear jewelry and don’t have a TikTok account? It does not matter, you must have veins, and they can help you too! “If your veins tend to be blue/purple, your undertones are cool., details our expert. If your veins are more green/olive, your undertones are warm. And if it’s a bit of both, then your skin tone is probably neutral.“.
Which foundation to choose according to your skin tone?
Even with the same skin color and undertone category, two skins can still be different. Because an undertone can be cold but tend more towards pink, red or blue. It can, on the contrary, be warm, but have rather yellow, golden or peach shades.
“The good news is that brands now offer options for all skin tones, with ranges that are very inclusive, not just in terms of ‘light skin/dark skin’ intensity, but also in terms of undertones. tones with a maximum of variations to suit everyone”emphasizes Michel Coulombe.
To identify yourself, be aware that brands generally use a code of letters: C stands for “Cool” (Cold), N stands for “Neutral” and W for “Warm” (Hot). A declination of numbers is then associated with each letter for the different possible shades.
Have you looked at your skin with a magnifying glass and think you’ve found your ideal foundation? Now proceed to the ultimate test: apply a few drops to your jawline and examine the result in daylight to check if there is any demarcation between your face and your neck. Does the color blend perfectly? Bingo, you’ve found the foundation you need!
The right colors to camouflage complexion imperfections
An essential tool in the world of colorimetry: the color wheel. This orderly representation of colors makes it possible to combine them harmoniously. It may seem complicated at first glance but it is actually very simple! To camouflage an imperfection, simply choose the color that opposes it on the chromatic circle, in order to create a balance and find a balance of colors. A redness ? It is on the green that you have to bet to conceal it. Of the dark circles bluish? Bet on orange to cover them discreetly. Pretty easy, right?
Make up your look according to the color of your eyes
“As with foundations, the options when it comes toeyeliner are today almost unlimited, points out Michel Coulombe. All shades offer undertones, and color choice has become quite complex. We can no longer say ‘if you have blue eyes, this is the color to take and the others don’t work’, since colors now come in a multitude of undertones”.
For the make-up artist, the question to ask is no longer: “What is the color that goes best with my eyes?” but rather “What effect am I looking for? Do I want a look that’s pretty light or a stronger look that brings out my eye color?”
Do you have the answer ? So bring yourself once again the famous chromatic circle. “For a soft beauty, the ideal is to create a more monochromatic look, by going for a color close to that of your eyes, recommends Michel Coulombe. For example, if you have blue eyes, you can bet on all shades of the blue family as well as the shades next to it on the color wheel such as green and purple.
And for a more contrasting make-up? “You have to look for complementary colors, that is to say opposite colors, continues our expert. The opposites of blue on the chromatic wheel are colors that will have a more orange, red, yellow tint… We can then work on the intensity by fading the colors to soften, or by adding shades of gray or black to create more effect smoky“.
Another tip: draw inspiration from all the nuances of her iris. “Let’s say you have shades of yellow in your eyes, it’s possible to create a nice contrast by betting on an opposite color like mauve, suggests the make-up artist. A good idea is to apply it in liner rather than eye shadow to bring a touch of fun without having a flat color all over the eyelid, which could be a little ‘too much’ for everyday life“.
The right colors for your mouth
An important rule for achieving a harmonious result is to emphasize either the mouth or the eyes, but not both. “Before starting your beauty treatment, you can ask yourself which part of your face you want to highlight more today, advises Michel Coulombe. Then start by making up this area, before attacking the others”. In other words: if you want to bring out your eyes, this is where you will have to place your colors, and stay lighter on the mouth. On the contrary, if you want to light up your mouth: a little mascara will suffice for your eyes and you can choose a slightly brighter color for your lips. And again, knowing your skin undertone will help tremendously. With a cold undertone, vivid shades of pink, violet or beautiful reds with cherry and plum reflections. For warm undertones, an orange-red or coral will be the most beautiful effect!
“When we talk about colorimetry, it’s not to be restrictive, it’s more to give a guideline, to know what will be the prettiest but above all the most harmonious, concludes Michel Coulombe. What we are always looking for is to create harmony”. Even with strong colors, and even with contrasting associations, make-up remains elegant as long as it is harmonious. To remember.
⋙ PHOTOS – Colorimetry: 20 inclusive makeup products to match all profiles
Photo credits: GETTY – Mikhail Azarov
