She knows that there are bigger problems in the world, but Ines (41) would like to know how she can reduce the fine lines in her face. “Very honest: they are a thorn in my side, those wrinkles. It is part of the process that your skin ages, but I suddenly see a lot of fine lines appear. Last year I increasingly come across the term ‘adenosine’, which would be some kind of panacea for aging skin. But is it? Or is this another good marketing? And is it different from retinol, which would also be a panacea?”
“In the West, adenosine is not yet well known, but in Korean skincare you can already find this ingredient in many products, such as toners, moisturizers and serums, in which adenosine is often used as a skin-rejuvenating ingredient,” says research doctor in cosmetic dermatology Jetske Ultee.
According to Ultee, there is “some evidence” that adenosine stimulates collagen production in the skin. “It is precisely the protein collagen in the skin that provides firmness. As a result, you fill wrinkles and fine lines from the inside, as it were.”
According to Ultee, a lot of research has been done into the skin-rejuvenating effect of vitamin A. “Vitamin A is also called the holy grail among anti-aging ingredients. Retinoids (forms of vitamin A, such as retinol) also stimulate collagen production, which your skin becomes firmer and wrinkles become less visible.”
Much less research has been conducted into adenosine than into vitamin A, the research doctor knows. But the research results that are available are promising. “Adenosine also scores points in terms of mildness: this ingredient soothes the skin, while vitamin A – especially in the form of retinol – can irritate the skin considerably.”
Gamble
Whether Ines would do well to buy products with adenosine? Ultee: “That depends a bit. If you like to use ingredients that you know for sure have an anti-aging effect, then vitamin A is your substance. But you could also take a chance and use adenosine. That is now being discussed. whispered that it will eventually take the place of vitamin A. But we don’t know for sure yet.”
Rubriek: Asking for a friend
In this weekly column Asking for a friend we submit reader questions about health to one of our experts. Do you also have a pressing health question for a general practitioner, obstetrician, dietician, psychologist or another health expert? Then mail it to [email protected] and who knows, you might see the answer appear here soon.