31/12/2022 11:17 Weather news
Ms. Tomoko Kitano of the Saijiki x Food Culture Research Institute explains why the Japanese eat soba on New Year’s Eve, what kind of history lurks in toshikoshi soba, and whether there are regional differences in ingredients and how to eat it.
The custom of New Year’s soba started in the Edo period
“There are several theories, but it is generally believed to date from the early and middle Edo period. During the Genroku era (1688-1703), when merchants flourished, the large shops of Edo Nihonbashi There is a haiku of “One Hundred People’s Soba Eating Sounds and New Year’s Eve”, which is about Echigoya Gofukuten (now Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Store).
In 1750, haiku poet Ransetsu Hattori wrote a haiku that read, “Using soba, the beard is white and the end of the year.” It seems that the custom of eating soba on New Year’s Eve started around that time.
Long Thin Soba Noodles Extend Your Lifespan!?
“As for the traits of buckwheat, thin and long-growing buckwheat is a good luck charm that prolongs life and prolongs the family’s fortune. There is a theory that one year’s hardships and debts should be cut within the year and not carried over to the following year, because it is easier to cut than other noodles and because it is easier to cut than other noodles.
From the effectiveness of soba, it is also said to remove the dregs of internal organs and internal organs and expect health effects. In 1697, during the Edo period, “Honshoku Kagami” (The Breakfast Book) wrote, “Soba soba calms the mind, relaxes the intestines, and effectively kneads the stagnation of the intestines and stomach.” By eating toshikoshi soba, you want to boost your body’s metabolism and purify your body to welcome the new year.
There is also a theory that it originated from a craftsman engaged in the processing of gold and silver. Artisans used kneaded buckwheat flour to collect gold dust, so soba was considered a good luck charm for “collecting gold”. Therefore, buckwheat is said to have been regarded as an auspicious food for “prolonging (accumulating) money”.
Also, during the Kamakura period, merchant Hakata Shakokumei served buckwheat rice cakes to people who were unable to survive the end of the year due to poverty at Jotenji Temple under the name “Yonaoshi soba”. the custom of eating soba on New Year’s Eve arose because fortune turned on New Year’s Day.
In the book “Dictionary Soba
What is the meaning behind soba in each region?
“Nationwide, tempura soba topped with large tempura prawns is probably the most popular dish. Prawns are a symbol of longevity, and the red color of boiled prawns is considered auspicious food. because it is
In Northern Kanto, there seems to be a region where people eat “Kenchin soba” made from kenchin soup on New Year’s Eve. Kenchin soup is said to be a popular lucky food in the Kanto region.
Kyoto and Osaka seem to have a lot of herring soba. Hot soba topped with sweet and savory boiled herring. The herring is written in kanji for “two parents” and, like herring roe (Kazunoko), “two parents will give birth to many children”, with the wish of “prosperity of the offspring”. At my parent’s house in Osaka, the New Year’s soba is herring soba. Boiled herring, green onions and “joy” are seasoned with oboro seaweed.
Also, “local soba” such as wanko soba in Iwate Prefecture, hegi soba in Niigata Prefecture, Echizen oroshi soba in Fukui Prefecture, and wariko soba in Izumo (eastern part of Shimane Prefecture) are often eaten as New Year’s soba. . In each region, the green onion that accompanies the condiment has the meaning of “appreciate (for the year’s work).”
In Kagawa Prefecture, the land of Sanuki udon, there are many families who eat udon even on New Year’s Eve.” (Mr. Kitano)
If you leave food behind, you will have a hard time in the new year!?
“Soba has long been a tradition of the last meal of the year, and since it is a food that embodies the meaning of making a wish at the end of the year, it had to be eaten before the new year. There are various ways to eat, such as eating while listening to bells on New Year’s Eve.
In my case, since I was a child, I have a habit of having dinner (adult sake and snacks) and eating from the second half to the end of NHK Kouhaku Uta Gassen.
In addition, there is a widespread legend that “If you eat leftover toshikoshi soba, you will have a hard time with money in the new year.”
Toshikoshi soba is a customary way to eat on New Year’s Eve, but it seems to have been an auspicious food since ancient times. How about eating toshikoshi soba while looking back on the past year and praying for a happy new year?
Reference materials, etc.
“Food Origin Encyclopedia” (Edited by Satoshi Okada/Tokyodo Publishing), “Soba Dictionary
