wor, you wonder after 36 courses, as blackcurrant sorbet with shiso jelly melts on your tongue, where is Dylan Watson-Brawn? Had he already disappeared when his team explained that the beet was swimming in a sauce from its own shell (aisle 34) and the cross rib (aisle 35) had been smoked for two days after four months of curing?
A visit to “Ernst”, probably the smallest restaurant in Berlin (eight seats), the most expensive (menu 250 euros without wine accompaniment) and certainly the most exciting. It’s nearly midnight and jazz music is blaring from the speakers. Behind the counter, five men in navy chef’s jackets work so precisely, quickly and silently, as if every movement were coordinated. For some time now, guests have enjoyed an evening somewhere between a dinner, a voyage of discovery and a dance. But where is the boss of everything, the man Gault Millau named Chef of the Year 2022? Business partner Spencer Christenson just caramelized plums (aisle 39). He smiles. Dylan? “He’s doing the dishes.”
