An emblematic dish from last summer: glazed pigeon with turmeric-chocolate sauce, oxidized sunflower seed purée and purple shiso. A nod to the sunflower fields of the Centre, the chef’s childhood landscape. © The house in the park
Charles Coulombeau, the Michelin-starred chef-owner of La Maison dans le Parc, has just received the prestigious new “Grand demain” award from the Gault & Millau guide. An award that closes an exceptional year for him and for his teams. Everyone is already thinking about tomorrow.
Surely Charles Coulombeau will remember the year of his 30th birthday. With his wife Roxane and the entire dedicated and energetic La Maison dans le Parc brigade, they have had a string of successes. In the feedback from the ever-growing number of guests and the big names in the profession, the need is underlined. And deserved recognition.
Despite all this spotlight, it’s not about hoarding the melon. The man remains available, always benevolent, generous and passionate. In his timed program he still manages to free up a few moments of sporting pleasures, another passion of his, to be evacuated. At this moment, he is deploying his effective footwork to climb the ladder with the yellow ball. History, once again, to progress through the ranks. On the pitch there is no doubt that between two points he also thinks and imagines tomorrow. A future that holds for him, with certainty, as many great victories, great surprises as plans. which he here he quotes.
Nancy has found her star and Charles Coulombeau has found her playground and passions.
Is being qualified as “Great of Tomorrow”, which means that the “Gault & Millau” team has immense hopes in you, is it an honor and equally obligations?
Charles Coulombeau : “It’s a nice reward that obviously makes us proud. I had already won an award last year in the “Sea, lake and river cuisine” category. For our involvement in environmentally conscious approaches, especially by inviting producers who have responsible fish farms. But also to underline our desire to use less fish than before.
With this new title “Tomorrow’s greats” that the guide attributes to me, it is a new step taken. To get even closer to the “Gault & Millau d’or” and the title of “Chef of the Year”! The latter obtained by Olivier Nasti, the chef of Chambard in Kaysersberg.
This “Great of Tomorrow” title shows that the professionals of “Gault & Millau” have been watching us for some time. That they are attentive to our approach, that the direction taken goes in the right direction and that they place a lot of hope in us. So it’s very flattering to the whole team. I believe that the values are shared, those of the terroir, of responsible cooking but also of the place given to technique.
On the obligations and requirement, they are daily. The pursuit of excellence that we share remains that of always doing better than the day before. I strive to be consistently precise and rigorous. I repeat it often: customers who arrive at 12 or 2 pm must have the same welcome, the same cuisine and the same experience. Regularity must also be a signature. »
Beef Wellington on the take-out menu for the holiday season. © The house in the park
During the ceremony you also had to prepare a dish on the spot. Share this moment with us…
” Absolutely. To vary the rhythm of the ceremony, some culinary interludes are foreseen. The winners will have to prepare a dish of their choice. So I proposed a saddle of rabbit stuffed with truffles and sesame seed oil. My dish was immediately tasted by Olivier Nasti, who commented very well. It’s always fun! »
This award crowns an exceptional year 2022 for you too. Is this the icing on the cake?
“After the star and distinction for hospitality and service from the “Michelin Guide”, an excellent commentary from “Gault & Millau” and an improved score, this “Grand of Tomorrow” award, I think I can say that we have been somehow rewarded by major reference guides. This is great news. It shows that the whole team is mobilized, engaged and that the work is valued. I immediately told my team that it was necessary to add an “s” to “big” in “Big Tomorrow”. My kitchen staff understood my philosophy and the path I wanted to follow. My wife Roxane’s rigor and high standards also pay off indoors. We manage to create a big synergy and a collective adventure that will take us further afield. All this requires energy and strength. We don’t miss it!”
Let’s talk about tomorrow and therefore about the end of year celebrations: is it complicated to refuel today?
“The news speaks of difficulties in the supply of foie gras. Yes, it was complicated for a week, but after informing our suppliers, we have found a few, expanding our supply areas a little more depending on the health episodes some may have experienced. I am fortunate to have contacts with producers in my home region of the Southwest. This helps. In general, the big change today is that we need to expand our supplier network. This was the case for truffles due to last summer’s drought. It also allows you to create new contacts, make beautiful encounters and also arouse new emulations. »
Precisely, we imagine that the period is shaping up to be busy once again for you. With new projects in the pipeline?
“The end-of-year festivities remain a very important moment. Several four-handed dinners with starred chefs are planned in the coming weeks. Our second truffle menu of the season is on the calendar this December 15th. For the end of year celebrations, we launch our takeaway sale with beef Wellington, foie gras, Kaviari caviar or even crabmeat and a gourmet basket. Of course, there are New Year’s and New Year’s meals. The year 2023 will also start with a bang since I will be back, from the first days of January, on the set of the daily program of France 5, “C à vous”. And still nice surprises coming in a few days! »
