Balenciaga showed his spring collection for 2023 on Sunday at the New York Stock Exchange between the flickering screens that showed stock prices. The fashion house has also entered into a partnership with sports giant Adidas. The sports brand is currently high on the list of luxury collaborations. At Balenciaga’s show, ‘logomania’ and sportswear are mixed with business looks with a hint of latex – exactly in the style of designer Demna (Gvasalia).
Stock prices flicker across the screens, the audience sits in between and the conversations get underway. There is a crowd as it would be on a normal trading day, but now the monitors are the only light source. A chime, signaling the start of the trading day, interrupts the crowds and marks the start of the show.
A dark secret
Gloomy techno music blares from the loudspeakers and the first model moves briskly through the rows of people. A black latex mask sparkles in the spotlight and stands out against the black look. This consists of an ankle-length flared-shoulder jacket with dark sunglasses, a large scarf and stiff latex gloves.
The latex mask can be seen in the entire collection. This anonymity has been part of Balenciaga’s looks before, such as the SS22 collection and the collaboration with Yeezy Gap. Previously, the masks were made of a sober cotton fabric. With the latex version, which leaves both the eyes and mouth free and is complemented by braids – reminiscent of whips – a sadomasochistic aesthetic is created.
This rebellious aesthetic is interspersed with suits and dresses in a more classic style. Together they convey a dark and mysterious feeling – like the businessman, who works on the stock exchange during the day and lives out his fantasies at night.
In addition to the business outfits, with models holding briefcases and coffee cups, there are also some more festive looks and there are even a few pops of color. Here, the face covering is also not missing and it is sometimes integrated into a form-fitting glittery dress. Colorful accents in the otherwise sombre collections are reflected in dark blue and green jackets, as well as white blouses and a summer dress with polka dots.
Video: Balenciaga via YouTube
Adidas x Balenciaga: Logomania Criticizing Consumerism
Things get even more colorful in the second part of the collection, which presents the collaboration with Adidas. The Balenciaga designer draws from the sportswear brand’s archives and finds his inspiration in the late 90s and 2000s. The Adidas logo and the iconic three stripes are highly visible and are combined with the Balenciaga logo. Oversized tracksuits pass by, football jerseys, baggy jackets, shoes and a range of accessories: socks, earrings and bags – all covered in logos.
The Disney, Twitter and Coca Cola logos run across the many screens showing stock prices; along with the collection logos, there is a sensory overload of brands. This is not without reason. The collection has a satirical touch and focuses on the logomania of recent years. The fashion designer Gvasalia is known for his groundbreaking concepts, criticizing the consumer society and the luxury industry. Recently Balenciaga introduced a controversial new sneaker with a worn look that sells for 1450 euros.
Trendy collaboration or invitation to criticism?
The partnership with Adidas has also brought criticism and dissatisfaction. Under the Adidas Originals Instagram post announcing the partnership, negative comments piled up, such as: “true bullshit”, “Bored already. Lazy designs” or linking to the Instagram account of Adidas Originals. Gucci as a criticism of the repeated collaboration with a major fashion house. The Italian fashion house, which, like Balenciaga, belongs to the luxury goods group Kering, already presented a collaboration with Adidas in February. However, in Balenciaga’s post about the collection, the comments were rather positive.
Fashion journalist Philippe Pourhashemi devoted his own critical post to the collection on his Instagram profile “fashionist76” and labeled the designs “without meaning or depth”. He can imagine no worse design than a baggy tracksuit and finds the use of latex materials “ridiculous” compared to collections from designers such as Walter van Beirendonck and Jean Paul Gaultier – who are known for this style.
Whether this criticism from experts and consumers is justified is a matter of opinion. What is clear is that Gvasalia has once again managed to make his collection the number one topic of conversation.
The collaboration with Adidas can already be pre-ordered in the online shop. As for the price, the socks collection starts at 210 US dollars (about 197 euros). The most expensive item is a leather jacket with a hood for 5500 US dollars (about 5155 euros). Pre-order is possible until May 29.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and adaptation from German into Dutch: Eugenia Melissen Ferrer.
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