Bottega Veneta, Fall 2018. (Image: Imago)
In New York Fashion Week is gradually coming to an end with collections for Fall / Winter 2018/19. Before the crowd of fashion people move to London, let’s recap two of the highlights of the shows in Manhattan.
It was cold in New York, if not to say frosty. But autumn fashion was also shown – you could get over the fact that spring was still a long time coming. In addition, there were always places and experiences that offered a welcome change from the cold, such as the Tory Burch show. Even the invitation card exuded a floral-romantic mood, and entering the location made the guests forget the nasty climate outside for a moment.
Tory Burchs Romantik
In an old market hall, with columns, round arches and mother-of-pearl-colored tiles, the designer had a field full of pink carnations planted in front of large windows. It smelled of freshly mown grass and earth – the designer Pina Bausch’s drama “Carnations” was the inspiration for this setting. The music, produced by Michel Gaubert, did not come off the tape, but “The Four Seasons Chamber Orchestra of New York” played live.
Tory Burch’s collection was suffused with romance. The color palette consisted of ivory, strong pink, red, leaf green, bordeaux and the designer’s “signature” color, the “Tory Navy”. Relaxed, feminine silhouettes – loose flowing dresses, scarves over tomboy jackets, short blazers, long dresses, combined with ponchos and peacoats – met sharp, masculine tailoring and created a nice contrast.
Conclusion: The Tory Burch woman has become younger, more modern and more relaxed. Forgotten are the now dusty logo ballerinas with which this designer became famous and successful.
Tomas Maier’s living room chic
On the occasion of the opening of a shiny new flagship store on Madison Avenue, Tomas Maier showed his collection for Bottega Veneta this season not in Milan, as usual, but in vibrant New York. He also made the city the theme of this collection. In the American Stock Exchange, Maier had a kind of New York living room set up for the show, complete with a fireplace, a John Chamberlain sculpture, Gio Ponti armchairs and of course the furniture by Bottega Veneta. Because the new store in NYC is the only store worldwide to have fashion and living under one roof.
Even in the run-up to the show it was noticeable that Bottega Veneta is now also relying heavily on influencers. Bloggers like Veronika Heilbrunner from Munich were flown in from all over the world and carried through the event on their hands. Of course, Salma Hayek was also there, whose husband Francois-Henri Pinault is known to be CEO of the parent company Kering. “Amore, let’s take a picture with Tomas!” Said Salma Hayek to her husband.
–(Image: BottegaVeneta.com)
The German top model Julia Stegner opened the show in a gold-colored silk pajama outfit – combined with cashmere coats in beautiful colors, these were a highlight of the show – very “Sex and The City”! The handbags, which are so important for Bottega Veneta, showed a lot of the typical, braided intrecciato leather – and many in the audience asked themselves: Is there never a new “it-bag” around the corner?
It is also strange: the day before the show, Tomas Maier said: “Bottega customers like things a little quieter and more subtle” – which the collection wasn’t exactly. The menswear in particular was full of colorful statements with animal prints and a checked mix. . . not exactly «effortless», otherwise Maier’s style and strength.
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