8 good restaurants in Provence to visit

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  Wolfgang Fassbender

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When the Swiss talk about holidays, they often mean neighboring France and, above all, Provence. There are good reasons for this: In the southern part of the Grande Nation you can enjoy a unique atmosphere – provided you know the right addresses.

Experienced travelers to Provence actually avoid the second half of July and August. It’s full here in normal years. It’s full this time, too, but barely bearable – as long as you avoid a few overcrowded places. Americans and British are mostly missing, Germans are rare, instead the French are on the road themselves and have brought many Belgians and a few Swiss with them.

They are all not only looking for warmth, dryness and light, but also enjoyment. A pastis in advance, then pies and charcuterie, maybe a pistou, that famous vegetable dish, or Provencal lamb. Plenty of garlic and olive oil, please, then goat cheese and Provencal red wine, and finally lavender ice cream or candied fruit.

The Provence restaurant scene is livelier than ever

Fortunately, it is not too difficult to find good places to eat. There are a few three-star restaurants between Marseille and Aix-en-Provence, but there is no shortage of small, rural bistros. However, gourmets should avoid the overly fancy four- and five-star hotels – unless they have precise information on the quality of the cuisine and the price-performance ratio.

Quite a few good restaurants offer overnight accommodation in an adjoining hotel or in a holiday apartment. However, a strategically convenient location such as the «Domaine les Martins», A Bed & Breakfast near Gordes, where I am writing this post.

1. «Bartavelle»: One time creativity please!

I was a guest at this 20 years ago Restaurant, which is still considered an insider tip. Emmanuel and Sylvie Champion run it today and don’t think about serving the usual Provencal fish and vegetable dishes. The menu is small, the passion for exciting dishes is great. The three-course menu with a salad of rabbit, beans and goat cheese, the fish of the day and dessert costs 48 euros.

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2. “Auberge la Fenière”: Gluttony ohne Gluten

Reine Sammut was, many years ago, one of the most famous cooks in Provence; in her Restaurant in Lourmarine Gourmets made a pilgrimage in search of authentic cuisine. I was there too 25 years ago. Daughter Nadia Sammut only got in much later and transformed the restaurant (to be found shortly before Cadenet today) into a total work of art. Gourmet menus in the evening, a bistro menu for 42 euros (aubergines filled with lamb with tahini!) At lunchtime, all gluten-free without exception. Why? Because Nadia Sammut suffers from celiac disease herself.

3. «Chez Serge»: always truffles

Carpentras always has flair – even if you don’t see it straight away. The old, winding city center is shamelessly bypassed by most travelers, but it shows the bitter, rustic character of Provence, also influenced by immigrants.

To Serge Tourists go to Provençal for a glass of wine and beef tartare with truffles. The landlord has long since achieved fame, instead of the once unavoidable pizza, the focus is on exciting basic menus. But like at the beginning of the story in 1987, you can sit here wonderfully when the sun goes down and you can enjoy your fill at a good price-performance ratio.

4. the table d’hôtes in the “Villa Regalido”

If you want to spend the night in style in Fontvieille, make a reservation in this hotel almost not around. The villa has a park and pool, as well as a table d’hôtes called “Emma”, which focuses on the products of the Alpilles rather than on a large kitchen. The olives, like the wines, come from the area; There are only a few exceptions to the principle of regionality – but very good ones, such as with the winemaker Gérard Gauby from Roussillon.

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5. «Table de Xavier Mathieu»: Pistou statt Caviar

The expensive cars in front of the door show that here customers who are used to luxury tend to stay away. For this clientele, the head chef with flowing white hair offers a menu with caviar. But there are alternatives – and they are far more exciting than the one star in the Michelin Guide suggests.

Grandiose pistou – Provencal vegetable soup -, truffle fougasse, duck with cherries and the best possible mashed potatoes are among my culinary experiences. The wine from Laura Aillaud is not expensive and highly recommended.

6. the restaurant in the «Hotel de Tourrel»

Gastronomy with an exceptional taste for the flavors of Provence. Chef Jérémy Scalia cooks in Saint-Rémy, one of the most visited cities in the region by tourists. If you reserve in good time, you can enjoy the mackerel, sea bass and shrimp, as well as other refined dishes, freshly delivered by a fisherman. in the Rooftop-Restaurant simpler dishes are served – and you can spend the night in a luxurious way.

7. “La Table de Pablo” for in between

The boss’s name is not Pablo, but Thomas, but that’s not a disadvantage. The most important thing is, that the cuisine of Provence is cultivated here like hardly any other bistro in the region. Mackerel, goat cheese, lamb and again and again the fabulous vegetables are refined into simple but exciting dishes. A recommendable address, especially for lunchtime!

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8. «Maison Hache»: climbers for gourmets

One of Climbers in this part of Provence. Christopher Hache cooks surprisingly and curiously, and serves oysters from the Camargue, snails from the Alpilles or the so-called Complexité made from Camargue rice and Mediterranean fish in a light and airy setting. The chocolate soufflé at the end is not really regional, but sensationally good.