5 enchanting gourmet walks in Île-de-France

Jerome Galland

1. In the forest of Meudon, a restaurant setting on the edge of a pond

Below Hangar Y, a new cultural venue in Meudon, nestles the Perch Y. At the edge of the Le Nôtre basin, this restaurant amazes for its magical natural setting, its elegant architecture and its plates. We sit on the beautiful wooden terrace at the edge of the water, where it is not uncommon to see herons and moorhens. In the background, the Meudon forest, embellished with a contemporary art trail, with works by Subodh Gupta and Ugo Rondinone. The menu celebrates the pleasures of a lakeside country brasserie, twisted by the emblematic audacity of chef Guillaume Sanchez: mussels with sake, land-sea vol-au-vent, sole or crème dulce caramel smoked with rosemary. The architecture is signed by Urban Act, and the decoration by Fanny Perrier. On the other side of the pond, there is also the Perchoir Y guinguette, more relaxed, ideal for an aperitif with friends, surrounded by peaceful nature.

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Perchoir Y – The Restaurant and The Guinguette9 avenue de Trivaux, 92190 Meudon.

2. A few steps from the Bois de Fontainebleau, a Franco-Japanese getaway

Not far from Paris, the forest of Fontainebleau offers an unparalleled natural break, coupled with a historical visit. Not far from the castle, the Japanese chef Kunihisa Goto officiates at three addresses: L’Axelrestaurant with one star in the Michelin Guide combining French and Japanese cultures, Fuumia traditional Japanese table (soba noodles, bentos and mochis), as well as L’A Patisserie KG, shop dedicated to the chef’s sweet delicacies, inspired by French and Japanese pastries. Yuzunoka cake combines the sweetness of yuzu almond cream with the freshness of candied lemon; as for the elegant Sakura, it offers a delicate strawberry biscuit, embellished with strawberry compote and refreshing shiso cream. Born in Japan, trained in France in large establishments such as the Bristol, Kunihisa Goto thus offers Fontainebleau three proposals adapted to everyone’s desires.

Fuumi, L’Axel, L’A Pâtisserie KG39-41-43 rue de France, 77300 Fontainebleau.

3. Next to the Palace of Versailles, a chic bistro

From the Pavillon Ledoyen, the gastronomic temple of Yannick Alléno, chef Jean-Baptiste Lavergne-Morazzani offers, at the Bistro at 11, a bistronomic cuisine that honors products from the land and the sea. The menus in two or five sequences offer fish, fruit and vegetables with apparent simplicity, but a certain gluttony: Egg, Spinach, Hollandaise or Salmon, Cucumber, Gribiche as a starter; Pollock, Green Beans, Saffron or Pork, Eggplant, Diable Sauce as a dish; and finally, Raspberry, Fromage Blanc, Sage or Caramel, Vanilla, Pecan for dessert. Recommended by the Michelin Guide, this restaurant deserves a visit during a walk in the Palace of Versailles, on the occasion of the Fountains Show or a visit to the Queen’s Estate.

The Bistro at 11, 10 Rue de Satory, 78000 Versailles.

4. In the heart of the grounds of the Château de Saint-Vrain, a kitchen garden in an old farmhouse

It will be necessary to move away from Paris to go to the Deanery, but the game is worth it. Located in the park of the Château de Saint-Vrin (which hosted the Countess du Barry, Niki de Saint-Phalle and Jean Tinguely), in Essonne, this old farmhouse has been renovated to house a restaurant and a bed and breakfast, in the heart of nature. Two Australian chefs, Shaun Kely and James Henry, embraced this place as a whole, transforming it into a place of cuisine, but also of culture. Their vegetable garden, cultivated in a reasoned way, supplies their restaurant and shapes their menu with de facto, ultra-local and seasonal products. We find them sublimated in a three-course lunch menu, as well as a carte blanche with multiple tastings: Ikejime red tuna, horseradish, Spring stew, ricotta and lardo, Turbot, chanterelles, yellow wine or Strawberry and rhubarb, cheese white. Le Doyenné is distinguished by a green star in the Michelin Guide.

The Deanery5 Rue Saint-Antoine, 91770 Saint-Vrain.

5. A few meters from the Bois de Boulogne, a bistronomic table

Ten minutes’ walk after leaving the enchanting Albert Kahn museum, with its incredible mini-gardens (Japanese, French, Chinese, etc.), or the Bois de Boulogne, one finds comfort at Bonnotte. As its name suggests, this restaurant wins accolades (including from the Michelin Guide) for its contemporary bistronomic cuisine, guided by Manon and Antoine Guichard (ex-Taillevent and Café Ineko). The products are fresh and generous, like the Bavette-murée, the Guinea fowl with mushrooms, the scallops with beets or the dark chocolate and fleur de sel cookie. Everything is sourced with a concern for sustainability, celebrating French terroirs, without ever compromising on indulgence. An accessible address in Île-de-France, at the gates of Paris.

Bonnet, 1 rue de Billancourt, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt.

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