At the World Sports Climbing Championships, the women’s final of “Boulder & Lead” was held, and 19-year-old university student Akisai Mori won the bronze medal, and has been selected to represent the Olympic team in Paris next year.
The sport climbing world championship held in Switzerland on the 11th will be selected for the Olympic team. , The women’s final of “Boulder & Lead” was held, competing for the total points of the two categories of “Lead”, which competes for the height climbed within the time limit.
In the eight-man final, two Japanese players, ▼ Mori, who won the gold medal in the lead event of this tournament, and ▼ Tokyo Olympic silver medalist Ikumo Nonaka, advanced to the final.
Of these, Mori completed the second of the four challenges in the first half of the boulder. However, this was the only challenge that made it all the way to the finish, where he finished 6th with 44.5.
In the second half, I used my strength of endurance and finger strength in the lead, which I am good at, and raised the altitude at a good tempo. , marking a total of 140.6 to win the bronze medal.
As a result, Mori won the right to participate in the Olympics, which is given to the top three, and has been unofficially selected for the Paris Olympics next year.
On the other hand, Mr. Nonaka was the only person to complete the 4th challenge on his favorite boulder, placing him in 5th place.
The gold medal was won by Janja Gambret of Slovenia, who also won the gold medal at the Tokyo Olympics, showing an overwhelming power with a total of 177 points.
Aya Mori “I’m happy, I want to be stronger”
Akisai Mori, who won the bronze medal in the sport climbing world championships “Boulder & Lead”, said about her decision to represent the Paris Olympics, “I still don’t feel it, but when I saw the Tokyo Olympics, I thought it was a really cool stage. I thought about it, so I’m happy to be able to stand on that stage, and I want to become stronger than I am now.”
Regarding the finals, where he recovered from 6th place in Boulder with his good lead, he said, “I thought it would be impossible in terms of points if I had to lead to the top, but I was lucky because it was a task that I was good at. It went well. I also changed my mentality,” he recalled.
After that, he said with a smile, “It’s a hard round and I wanted to finish in the lead, so it’s frustrating, but I’m happy to be on the podium.”
Born in Ibaraki, 19 years old, 2nd year student at University of Tsukuba
Aya Mori is a 19-year-old from Ibaraki Prefecture and a sophomore at the University of Tsukuba.
She started sport climbing when she was in the first grade of elementary school, and is known for her flexibility and strength in her fingers.
Since 2019, he has participated in the World Cup and has been active, standing on the podium, but since then he has not participated in international competitions in order to prioritize his studies for entering university.
And last year, when he participated in the World Cup for the first time in three years, he suddenly won two consecutive wins in the Lead World Cup, beating the Tokyo Olympic gold medalist Slovenian Janja Gambrett, and held two events, “Boulder & Lead”. He also won his first ever World Cup.
Even in this year, the momentum did not stop and won the Japan Cup, which decided the best in Japan in “Boulder & Lead”.In this world championship, he remained in the final in Boulder and placed 6th. Won the first gold medal.
At the Tokyo Olympics, he was not given the right to participate due to the judgment of the international sports organization during the selection process for the national team, but he is expected to win a medal at the Paris Olympics by making use of his forte in climbing.
Overwhelming strength in the lead Boulder strengthening is a challenge
While the overwhelming strength in leading, which is her favorite event, stood out in this tournament, the issue of strengthening boulder, which requires power, became clear for next year’s Olympics.
Mori, who is 1.54 cm tall, has endurance and flexibility, but is not good at tasks that require arm strength and tasks that require jumps due to the distance of holds.
This time, even in the boulder and lead finals, in the first half of the boulder, out of the four challenges, I was able to complete only the second challenge, which had a gentle slope, and I could not improve my score in the rest of the power challenges. , the ranking was also behind with 6th place.
Still, he changed his mind, saying, “If you drag on the frustration, it will affect you, so have fun,” and took the lead in the second half.
In order to qualify for the Paris Olympics, a high score of “93.3” or higher was required for the lead, and it was necessary to climb almost to the top.
Even under such pressure, he showed his mental strength on the big stage by climbing higher than anyone else among the eight finalists with a good tempo climb that made use of his finger strength.
On the other hand, she was more than 36 points ahead of the gold medal winner Janja Gambret of Slovenia, demonstrating the difference in overall strength between the two events.
Mr. Mori, who has overwhelming ability in the lead, has a clear problem. I spoke of my determination.
“I want to be stronger,” he always said, and climbed to the top level in the world.
How far we can strengthen the boulder by the Paris Olympics next year will lead to further evolution.
Imoe Nonaka “I’m just going for my goal”
Imo Nonaka, who was 7th in the sport climbing world championship “Boulder & Lead”, said, “It’s clear what I’m lacking, and it’s clear that I’m improving, so I know what I need to do. I think I’m just going to work toward my goal,” he said, looking forward.
In the final, he showed his strength by being the only person to complete the fourth boulder challenge, saying, “It was a worthwhile climb because it was a difficult climb and no one else could climb it. I want to do what I can do without giving up,” he said.
Sports climbing to be divided into two events at the Paris Olympics
At the Tokyo Olympics, sport climbing was held as a “combined” event consisting of three events, but at the Paris Games it will be divided into two events: “boulder and lead” and “speed.”
At the Tokyo Olympics, sport climbing was implemented as a combination of three events, and the ranking of each event was multiplied, and the athlete with the lowest number was ranked higher.
At the Paris Olympics, this will be reviewed, and in the so-called “combined” event “Boulder & Lead”, a maximum of 100 points will be given for each category of boulder and lead, and the ranking will be determined by the total score.
Of these, in Boulder, where four challenges are set up, points are obtained when reaching a point called “zone” in the middle of the course, and 25 points are given when climbing one task to the end.
In addition, the lead, which competes for the height of climbing the wall in one try, will be 100 points when the climb is completed in a format in which points are added for each move to the top.
Athletes are required to have the skills and stamina to perform at a high level the boulder, which requires power, and the lead, which requires endurance.
On the other hand, “speed” is an event that competes for the fastest time to climb a 15-meter-high wall with a universal route. It will be a fight.
The final round is held in a tournament format, and the athletes will be eliminated immediately by flying or falling, so in addition to the instantaneous power and reaction speed of short-distance running on land, the tension of not being able to make mistakes is also a highlight. One.
2023-08-11 22:25:00
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