[이은진의 ‘에스파냐 이야기’] (Episode 36) Seville (3): Hometown of the innovative Baroque court painter Murillo

Spain, a country far and near

Spain is a traditionally friendly country in Europe that is celebrating the 73rd anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic ties with Korea this year. In the past, it was known only as a country of bullfighting and soccer, but recently it has become a major European tourist destination frequently visited by Koreans. It is emerging as a country of major interest, with not only tourism but also economic and cultural exchanges between the two countries becoming more active.

Eunjin Lee’s ‘Spanish Story’ series introduces the history and culture of Spain, a fusion of Celtic, Roman, and Islamic cultures.

To see the lifestyle of Seville people, you must go to the Santa Cruz district. This is a historical district located in the center of Seville. The origins of this area were settlements established by Jews in the Middle Ages, and it later flourished as a Jewish residential area. It retains its original appearance, including antique houses in Andalusia’s unique style, many historical buildings, and narrow, maze-like streets. It is a unique place where the romantic atmosphere of Seville’s past remains, with many large and small squares that serve as the center of life for residents.

In Spain, there are so many different bars that it can be said that there is a bar across from one door. The bar is the most Spanish place. There are people in the bar, and there is conversation. Although they may seem a bit talkative, this is why Spaniards are mentally healthy. No matter what city I go to, I stop by a bar two to three times a day to drink coffee. Each bar serves tapas made with its own secret recipe. The people of Seville are ordering tapas, wine and beer and enjoying the strong sun shining down on them. Looking at the menu, there is pickled fish pescaito, small stuffed rolls, snails, and pinot (white wine) or manzanilla (sweet wine). I highly recommend you try it when you come here.

Murillo Park (Jardines de Murillo) entrance sign. Provided by the author

Spanish people walking around the Santa Cruz district. Provided by the author

If you walk a little further, you will reach Murillo Park (Jardines de Murillo). This place commemorates the Seville-born court painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. Murillo, who grew up in a Jewish ghetto, studied painting under Velázquez, another court painter and master. He is a Baroque master and is called the Raphael of Spain.

1660～1665. 무리요作 (The Immaculate Conception of Los Venerables). ⓒ Prado Museum

His well-known religious painting depicts the Immaculate Conception, with the Virgin Mary dressed in blue and white, standing on the moon with her hand on her heart and looking up at the sky. The composition placing Mary in the middle of a heavenly space filled with light, clouds, and angels and the appearance of her about to ascend to heaven are characteristic. The doctrine of the Immaculate Conception is the Catholic doctrine that the Virgin Mary was conceived without original sin. The meaning of the picture of the Immaculate Conception in Spain is great. This is because in Spain, the belief in conceptionism, which was recognized elsewhere only in the 19th century, has been adhered to as a doctrine for 200 years. Perhaps because of this influence, Murillo painted about 20 paintings of the Immaculate Conception throughout his life. He painted in greater numbers than any other Spanish painter of the time.

1645. Murillo ⓒ Musée du Louvre

In addition to religious paintings, Murillo also painted everyday paintings. One of the famous works is. Also known as ‘The Teething Boy’, it depicts an orphan on the streets of Seville catching a tooth. The contrast between sunlight and shadow was used at sunset. Several shrimp shells left at the boy’s feet indicate what he last ate. It depicts poverty realistically.

Spaniards enjoying a meal at a cafe in the Santa Cruz district. A red flower pot was hung on the wall. Spanish people are passionate about decorating their homes with pots and plants. Provided by the author

The city of Seville designated 2017 as the ‘Year of Murillo’ to honor the great Murillo and held commemorative projects for a year. Casa de Murillo, located in the Santa Cruz district, is where he spent his last years and has been decorated in the form of a birthplace museum. Even if a person dies, the artistic soul remains.